What did you do to your volkswagen today?

buggin70 wrote:

DiggerD wrote:That would be a 1915 SP, 40mm Kads.

y single port?
y dont u make it dp

Since its in a bus, I can use the torque more than the horsepower. I put alot of miles on it, (11,000) this year and this package has been pretty much bullet-proof. I ran back from Bulli, average about 75 mph for 9 hours and it never got hot.

rpm750 wrote:

DiggerD wrote:68.19 hp @ the wheel 97.08 tq

Are you sure thats not 98hp? I'm sure your 1915 would put out more than that, right? I would think my little stock 1585(1600) is about 55 to 60. Seriously...

Maybe it's 97.08hp and 68.19tq that would be more in line with a 1915.

It's a single port, so the hp and tq numbers are pretty much where they should be.

I would like to see a 100 hp to the wheel 1776,

DiggerD wrote:

buggin70 wrote:

DiggerD wrote:That would be a 1915 SP, 40mm Kads.

y single port?
y dont u make it dp

Since its in a bus, I can use the torque more than the horsepower. I put alot of miles on it, (11,000) this year and this package has been pretty much bullet-proof. I ran back from Bulli, average about 75 mph for 9 hours and it never got hot.

actually what i was thinkin was a heat issue

very smart great idea

Yes heat really becomes a factor in a bus, you are pushing something shaped like a brick and there is not alot of airflow into the engine compartment. Converted to dual port, with some good heads and maybe a little more carb, the numbers would prob be close to what RPM was saying.

Well now that I see it's a single I can see why the Hp is what it is. I thought because you could leave me sittin still on the freeway that it was a dual port with two barrel duals 1915. "Pardon me but it sounded a little faster on radio!" LOL Really cool that you've put that many miles on her.

rpm750 wrote:Well now that I see it's a single I can see why the Hp is what it is. I thought because you could leave me sittin still on the freeway that it was a dual port with two barrel duals 1915. "Pardon me but it sounded a little faster on radio!" LOL Really cool that you've put that many miles on her.

Well, the straight axle helps on the freeway some.

Yeah, when I figured up my milage for the past year I was suprised. I put more miles on it than my nissan p/u........

DiggerD wrote:

rpm750 wrote:

DiggerD wrote:68.19 hp @ the wheel 97.08 tq

Are you sure thats not 98hp? I'm sure your 1915 would put out more than that, right? I would think my little stock 1585(1600) is about 55 to 60. Seriously...

Maybe it's 97.08hp and 68.19tq that would be more in line with a 1915.

It's a single port, so the hp and tq numbers are pretty much where they should be.

I would like to see a 100 hp to the wheel 1776,

i was thinkin just on engine dyno
idk what made me think that haha

Bought some seat belts for java...

rpm750 wrote:

Maybe it's 97.08hp and 68.19tq that would be more in line with a 1915.

As seen above, those numbers are correct and I would be really concerned if the numbers were inverted. All that HP and nothing to show for it. And like Darryl said, in a bus, you can throw the HP number out the window, it's all about the TQ.

I did a dumb thing.

Moved my oil bath air cleaner to look for some bolts, and forgot that it's full of oil, tipped it to one side, and spilled oil all over all the crap in the garage.

But I did get my front torsion arms on, spindles on, steering coupling bushing on, shocks on, basically started the re-assembly of the beam.

Put all the vacuum hoses back in the right place and guess what? She now holds an idle. Found another fuel line that needs replacing so next is a trip to the parts store for more fuel line and then maybe, just maybe I get to drive her around the block.

Yay!!! I love driving my vdub. Its been the greatest thing ive bought.
Who said money couldnt buy love? haha.

Rode in it!

I've only driven my car but my wife will have to drive it to work tomorrow and she's never driven it till tonight.

Please pray for my car!

rpm750 wrote:Rode in it!

I've only driven my car but my wife will have to drive it to work tomorrow and she's never driven it till tonight.

Please pray for my car!

let me get this right the wife is driving OH BUGGA and what are you driving? The AIRCOOLED GEEK DUB

well it was runnin bad this mornin loss of alot of power
i was runnin late for school so i took it anyways

after school went to the shop checked points and carb

so i cleaned the spark plugs

same still

i was stumped so i ask my grandpa to come over to take a look
and he goes and gets a rachet and tightens the intake and it sounds fine and runs better haha

and i ordered points rotor cap plugs and wires should be here tomarrow

Hey digger, where did you go to get the bus duno'ed? i'd love to take my 72, and see what power its makin. its a 2074 (78mm crank, 92mm pistons) with 042 heads, single 44 IDF, 120 cam, 1.25 ratio rockers. anybody got any ideas on about how much HP or TQ i should be makin?

anyhoo. for the past two weeks, i've had what i thought was an exhaust leak on my 74 super (stock 1600), which actually turned out to be a head comming loose. basically sounded like a valve ticking REALLY BAD, or a bad exhaust leak. when you are on the gas a little, it was a tick, when you floor it, it sounds like exhaust leak (as if you straight pipe one cylinder). anyhoo, took the motor out and i really didn't want to take all the crap off the motor. and since i had some cheap shitty scat tins, which i plan to trash anyway, i decided to ........uhhh.......modify them . soo to tourque down the heads i used a hole cutter, cut a hole on each side of the cylinder tin over the two outside studs. then cut the bottom part tin where the spark plug holes are (the thin part), and folded the metal out to i could get to the end of the center studs (ANYONE SPOT THE "WTF" STATEMENT HERE? NO ONE? WELL, IF THIS WAS ORIGIONAL GERMAN TIN, THERE WOULD HAVE BEEN AN AIR VANE IN THE WAY. GOTTA LOVE AFTERMARKET SCAT SHIT). tourqued the heads down again, and i'm good to go. since the studs have a bit of rust on them, i deceded to TQ them down to 25ft lbs, instead of 18, because i know the rusty studs would have caused the TQ numbers to be off, thus the heads would stay loose. anyhoo, i plan to pull the motor out again, and just redo everything (OE tins, thermostat flaps, alcohol thermostat (or a mexican stat, if i can find one), etc.

peregrine67 wrote:Put all the vacuum hoses back in the right place and guess what? She now holds an idle. Found another fuel line that needs replacing so next is a trip to the parts store for more fuel line and then maybe, just maybe I get to drive her around the block.

You ARE using the right type of fuel line aren't you.
I did the same thing to a '76 I used to have. I bit the bullet and bought the correct fuel line and clamps.

Hust be careful if you are using 1/4" fuel line in stead of 7mm id. It is known to pop off an injector and burn up your bus...
This is a common problem.
KC

i always go 22-25 lbs with lock tite on my heads so they dont come lose

"soo to tourque down the heads i used a hole cutter, cut a hole on each side of the cylinder tin over the two outside studs. then cut the bottom part tin where the spark plug holes are (the thin part), and folded the metal out to i could get to the end of the center studs"


What part of the Bentley Manual are you using?? I didn't see that section!

Grifspop wrote:"soo to tourque down the heads i used a hole cutter, cut a hole on each side of the cylinder tin over the two outside studs. then cut the bottom part tin where the spark plug holes are (the thin part), and folded the metal out to i could get to the end of the center studs"


What part of the Bentley Manual are you using?? I didn't see that section!

It was that shitty scat tin without the air vane in the tin, and i plan to replace the tins anyhow, but i just didn't have the time to take everything off the motor, to get the tins off. I had to get to work today, lol. but i'm about to go and tear the motor out, and do it right (WITH GERMAN TINS!!!) since i'm off the rest of the day.

[quote="ASBug"]

peregrine67 wrote:... be careful if you are using 1/4" fuel line in stead of 7mm id. It is known to pop off an injector and burn up your bus...
This is a common problem.
KC

I did use 1/4 inch. Where can I find 7mm fuel lines locally? The two parts stores I checked only had 1/4 inch.

[quote="peregrine67"]

ASBug wrote:

peregrine67 wrote:... be careful if you are using 1/4" fuel line in stead of 7mm id. It is known to pop off an injector and burn up your bus...
This is a common problem.
KC

I did use 1/4 inch. Where can I find 7mm fuel lines locally? The two parts stores I checked only had 1/4 inch.

I found some 7mm cloth covered hose at a John Deer Tractor place, but I had already ordered from bus depot in bulk.


Look at this thread:
http://www.volksfolks.org/forums/index.php?topic=4637.0


My bus had a simular sit time as yours, you might like this reading.
The hose suppliers are about 2/3rds way down on 1st page.
I din't buy the kit, I just measured all the hoses added 10% to the length and then bought the Fuel Injection clamps at autozone, they are cheaper and do not have to pay shipping. If you look at the actual clamps in the package, then you'll see the metric #'s stamped into them.
PM me if you have any questions.
KC

peregrine67 wrote:
I did use 1/4 inch. Where can I find 7mm fuel lines locally? The two parts stores I checked only had 1/4 inch.

try Mycos in scottsdale- http://www.mycoimportedparts.com/

Try Stockornaut im sure they have it and if not then can get it for you fast! Here's their number 770-888-4909

my parts didnt come in so i have to wait till tomarrow

i got some wolfsburg lap belts with some rust on them for free
so i used some polish got the rust off im soaking them in cleaner to get the mildew off then im gunna clear the buckles so they dont rerust