Stripped alternator nut

I just stripped the pulley nut on my alternator.  Is there a work around for this that doesn't involve a new alternator

just tap the treads and replace the nut

That is going to be tough. So it mangled the threads on the shaft? You will need a die to recut the threads but holding it steady may be difficult. The threads are 12x1.5. You might can chase the threads, but that is a critical area.

its not to hard. hold the fan in rear or leave back half of pully on and hold with wrench ,tap to what ever size you need to cut it down to , and replace with a new nut.

Thanks for feedback... I just put the engine back in after replacing a head and the thought of another semi-major repair within a week's time has been depressing.

That doesn't look to bad, unless the other side is worse. Just get a tap and chase the threads.

I would replace that pulley too. Looks like it has wobbled while loose.

Picked up another nut at the hardware store which seems to be working at the moment. Looks like the threads on the nut gave way as well and minimize damage to the shaft. It was dark when I stripped it and was frustrated/panicked when I made the original post. I will be pretty cautious of this for at least the near future.

I see grooves on that pulley hub. That will fail.

vw57drvr wrote:I see grooves on that pulley hub. That will fail.

Guess you were right....and I was so looking forward to driving her again.  
At least she started without too much trouble after six months or disintegrate on the way to work.

That sucks. Stay away from most of the aftermarket stuff. There are plenty of original ones out there. Proper shimming is key to preserving the pulley. Is that fan required for that particular alternator?

vw57drvr wrote:...Is that fan required for that particular alternator?

Nope- just something I picked up that looked beneficial.

I would ditch it. The alternator cooling comes from the rear fan as long as the tin is installed correctly. Did it also shear the key in the pulley shaft?

vw57drvr wrote:... Did it also shear the key in the pulley shaft?

The key got a little beat up. I'm not sure the threads are going to make it. I did put on an older pulley and my the nut slipped again. I plan to try taking a cutting die to it this weekend.

The problem is that if there is any play in the key, or if the threads on the shaft are getting too thin, then its a ticking time bomb. I know replacing the alternator is a task, but that may be your best bet at the moment. Every time the threads get a little messed up and a die is used, more material comes off. Bite the bullet and pull the engine. Get a good alternator, good OEM pulley, key and nut. Make sure you have at least 7-10 spacers total for adjustment and start fresh. Ditch that outer fan and clean the inner fan while you have it out.

With the dual carbs, I can swap the alternator w/o pulling the engine. I have put off changing the alternator partially due to cost partially because the alternator is a three wire and a new one would be a two wire setup.

You can do it wil a single carb too. But either way you have to remove the deck lid and hinges. Thermostat and flaps make it difficult if you have them. Single wire alternator is much easier to wire and you don't have to have that goofy regulator.

ive take out many with out removing deck lid or pulling motor, some times a little hard to get the two bottom screws off bug not to bad

That is certainly doable, but when you have a thermostat, flaps, large intakes, rear dog house scoop, rear tin, etc. it gets to be more trouble than its worth. Especially if you want to check your oil cooler while you are in there. If you feel that saves time, then by all means go for it. I can get my engine out by myself in about 15-20 minutes. Then I know my flaps and tin are back in place correctly. Just my preference. However, some people dont use all of the tin or Tstat.

With a single carb, I could pull my engine in about an hour (probably 1.5+ now). My dread is putting the engine back in. I always seem to struggle with getting the engine to line up with the drive shaft on the tranny. I doubt I will swap the alternator unless I just have to and will probably unbolt the fan and alt stand, before I pull the engine.

Thanks for the advice - I'll keep you posted.

I wish you luck. Dealing with alternators is always a pain. Such a critical area. Getting that fan off in the car can be a bear too. Especially if someone put it on with an air tool.

Lucky for me no air tools were used when I installed the fan...some time back, and I've got a 1/2" ratchet and socket that fit with enough room to break that nut loose.

Hopefully, I won't have to go that far, but the key is shot and will need to be replaced.

After a shipping debacle, parts (most of them- anyway) finally came in today. Hoping to have her back on the road soon.

I lost the battle over the weekend and bought a new alternator yesterday...almost back together...still having to play with shims to keep the fan from rubbing the shroud.

I hate to sound like a broken record, but that chrome pulley is junk. Find a german one. Also, maybe its just the angle, but the pulley looks like its sticking out too far and out of alignment with the bottom pulley. If that is case, There may be a bushing missing in the alternator. I hope that nut is not the one you are using. What kind of strap is that on the alternator?