Traditional question, anyone have a decent DIY for narrowing a beam

I been searching and I turned up some very useful info. I am just wondering if anyone has something they woulnd't mind sharing. I will also bee installing adjusters while I am in there.

Do I need some sort of new bearings to go along with this?

Errybody like pics


DONK!! (gotta fix that)

Yeah VW trends, now no longer published, had an article a few years ago......
http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0407vwt_beam_narrowing/index.html

If you have a Ball Joint Beam narrow it from the middle.

Thank you for that.

Here's another build thread for a narrowed beam, these guys narrow the beam without welding in 4 places, they slot the beam and weld it in 2 places:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=394692&highlight=narrowed+beam+cut

I think I'm going to go for the 2nd option. there is some missing information from it but I think I can figure it out...

Got a few questions, If anyone could answer them I would greatly appreciate it.

1)The locators for the steering box. SHould I grind them smooth and just tighten down the box after its in the car where it will seat? also will it not interfere witht he grease fitting?


2)The steering dampner mount thingy, If I narrow the beam 6 inches should Imove that 3? I beleive it will be close to the side if I do that.
EDIT: after re reading the write up it states to do this.....


3) strut tower thingies. cut em off and weld it back solid and sturdy?



4) is the sway bar a wash? just cut it off?

Save it when you narrow the tie rods the sway bar fits in the tie rods perfect

Ok what about the steering box locators?

I ground mine off and tacked some new ones in place.

Cool, thanks errbody! Wish me luck!

The steering box locators will come right off with a little persuasion with an air chisel. Then just move them over and weld them back on.

Air chisel, the one tool I don't have acess to. Going old school, hammer and chisel.

What about the bump stops? Move them, remove them, let em be?

86vwgti8v wrote:What about the bump stops? Move them, remove them, let em be?

bump stops are for suckas!

Lol!

Looked at the thread, looks like ya cut those off flush with what was the shock tower those will be cut off also.

About to notch and saw it.
I need, to get some pics...made a ghetto jig that should make life easier.

yea i agree with callahan on this one that bump stops are for losers. you need to notch your spring plates.

here ya go..


Ghetto jig.




Laid out the slout and the cuts using the mill off the original center.



Bolted it up to the jig


tah dah!!

gonna finish grinding and paint it tomorrow. will also do the tie rods tomorrow.

Remember, don't shorten the torsion leaves from one side, shorten both sides by 1/2 the amount

Some people have tried to get away with shortening one side, and their car sits higher on one side

I did shorten both sides but why would that make the car sit higher? As long as you put a dimple back in the middle...correct?

86vwgti8v wrote:I did shorten both sides but why would that make the car sit higher? As long as you put a dimple back in the middle...correct?

I'm asking that same question. Dimple in the middle leaves same tension/spring on both sides, even if you left one side in its og position and made a new dimple in the middle and cut off all excess from one side.

I think it has to do with the fact that on a stock beam, the center is of the leafpack is held stationary by the grub screw. The center of the pack never flexes and stays stiff. The further from the center you move, the more the leaf pack twists and weakens over time. Therefore if you cut the same amount off of each end, the flex/wear on each end will be the same. If you only cut one side, the uncut side would probably be weaker and sit a little lower. The side you cut will be closer to the original center of the leaves and probably be a little bit stronger.

Makes sense...

86vwgti8v wrote:Makes sense...

well that's just my guess on it. No idea if it's correct or not

Nice job on your beam!