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Traditional question part 2: lowering the rear

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Post by 86vwgti8v Fri Jun 17, 2011 5:36 pm

just like as in the beam question I posted, I will be researching this but I want to see what you guys may have to offer.

I guess I am looking to notch the spring plates. Any one Have dimensions on that?

How low will X amount of clicks get? there's no motor in it so its kinda hard to judge.

Is there a DIY on any of this?

I know there is a inner and outer spline but I'm looking for pointers as to what this is in reference to.

You guys were a huge help on my other post hopefully some one else can find that thread and use the info generated.
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Post by fluxcap Fri Jun 17, 2011 6:10 pm

This is what I followed when I lowered my rear end. This article is actually for raising a rear end, but it gives you the idea of how everything comes apart and works.
http://www.meyersmanx.com/garage/garage_suspend.htm

The rear torsion bars (one on each side of the car) have splines on both ends. Inner splines and outer splines. The inner and outer ends have a different number of splines though, so rotating one outer spline isn't the same as rotating one inner spline. Here is a chart that shows you how much each spline lowers your car.

Traditional question part 2: lowering the rear Splines

Before you do anything, go to home depot, find the tool section, and get what is called an inclinometer. This is the best tool to have when re-indexing the rear. Once you drop the spring plate from the stop and it is at a free rest, measure your angle BEFORE you remove the spring plate from the torsion bar. This way if you mess up, you know where you started and can easily get back there.

You can use a combination of inners and outers movements to fine tune. Indexing the arm up one outer spline gives you a drop of 5.5cm (a little over 2 inches)

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Post by 57RTOval Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:09 pm

Ditto on the inclinometer. My 57 was leaning badly when I got it so I had no good starting point. I used the inclinometer to set both sides equal and re-level the car.
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Post by ASBug Fri Jun 17, 2011 9:49 pm

X3 on the inclinometer, around like $10 at Home depot.
Also, there is a really good 4 part series on Youtube on this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMxBolHOJR4
There are like 10 thousand videos on how to do this, but this guy is easy to understand and puts it into plain english.
It is the same as a beetle, except some, (like mine), have 2 swing plates.

Good luck!
KC


Last edited by ASBug on Sat Jun 18, 2011 7:09 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post by 86vwgti8v Sat Jun 18, 2011 6:54 am

Thanks errbody!

I was watching some of the vids last night. Looks rather simple.
How many "clicks" before I need to notch the spring plates?
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Post by 86vwgti8v Sat Jun 18, 2011 7:33 am

http://www.manuelsweb.com/in_cm.htm

There's a cm to inch conversion chart if anyone else would like it.

At one point in time some one told me to be careful when doing this, they sted like the springs may be under pressure. True?

How much can I expect the motor to drop it? Not sure if I want to do 2 or 3 outer splines.
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Post by bakertim2 Sat Jun 18, 2011 10:29 pm

This is what 3 outer spline will look like...
Traditional question part 2: lowering the rear 03810
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Post by 86vwgti8v Sun Jun 19, 2011 8:11 am

^ this!
Did you have to notch your spring plates?
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Post by bakertim2 Sun Jun 19, 2011 11:39 am

Yes, I notched about a 1/2" out to keep the plate from hitting the stop.
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Post by 57RTOval Sun Jun 19, 2011 11:58 am

The spring plates are under load when setting against the bottom stop. There's a number of ways to get them past the stop safely including a special tool.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7047
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Post by Attorney Isaiah Loophole Sun Jun 19, 2011 12:01 pm

for a swing all you need to do is take the axle loose put the jack under the end of the spring plate and lift it off the stop.....put a big screw driver between the plate and housing and pry it out while lowering the jack enough to clear the stop

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Post by 86vwgti8v Sun Jun 19, 2011 1:05 pm

Traditional question part 2: lowering the rear 2011-06-19_13-04-03_844

Is that what we are calling the stop?
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Post by fluxcap Sun Jun 19, 2011 1:36 pm

That's it!

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Post by bakertim2 Sun Jun 19, 2011 2:22 pm

I am referring to upper stop. When one lowers the rear excessively as on Drew's car, the spring plate has to be notched or have an offset built into it. Something similar to these which are for a bus.
Traditional question part 2: lowering the rear 229872
There are drop plates available as well.
Traditional question part 2: lowering the rear 3103709
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Post by 86vwgti8v Sun Jun 19, 2011 3:39 pm

Right on, there was 2 conversations regarding stops at the same time. I really like the concept of the drop spring plates.
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Post by callahan Sun Jun 19, 2011 9:40 pm

just notch the plates and set em at 2 clicks you'll be good to go
don't over think it its waaaay easy

2 outers = nice and low may eat tires and rub depending on what size
3 outers = just time before your fulcrums and drums take a dump and its way low
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Post by 86vwgti8v Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:57 am

Traditional question part 2: lowering the rear 2011-06-22_07-05-14_916

Media blasted, and notched. Already painted one side and they look damn good!
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Post by bakertim2 Wed Jun 22, 2011 8:40 am

Nice job...
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Post by 86vwgti8v Wed Jun 22, 2011 8:42 am

Thank you, I appreciate that!
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Post by 86vwgti8v Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:49 pm

Traditional question part 2: lowering the rear 2011-06-22_14-33-10_545
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