My 1959 Euro Bug

Very kool.

Nice work Baker keep us updates Danny

Looks really good.

That "H" apron looks really great on there, Danny

Been working on the electrical this am, had to make a new left side taillight/brake light harness since it was too short with the '59 clip. The wiring runs to the rear of the apron and goes through a small tunnel then out a body hole only seen from the inner fender well. Also found my bad brake fluid leak. The rear port for the brake light switch is leaking and it is dripping out as fast as you can pour in fluid. If you tighten the switch is gets worse so there must be a crack in the casting. I may try a 10 mm x 1.0 mm plug with a copper washer to see if that fixes it or I need to get another MC. Either way I am cleaning out all the Dot 3/4 fluid and replacing it with Dot 5 so it will not ruin any more paint.

I assembled the 1955 cc engine for the Baja and going to use it in Wilma for a while, so I can save up for a good set of ported heads, complete balancing, 1.4 ratio rockers and pushrods and for the 2276. Also need to buy the single IDF 40 offroad carb setup to replace the dual IDF 44. Here is a shot of the 1955 cc engine before it went to ProFlo to have Steve shim the springs and 1.4 rockers and cut the pushrods to size. Please excuse the primered cooling tins and shroud. They need to be trimed after the long block is installed and then I will paint them.
I also went with a new Insurance carrier, Hagarty, instead of State Farm. I have full coverage, 100/300K and if the car is totaled I receive a very nice Stated Value check which also includes my personal labor as well paid labor costs. This policy is not for DD use, but I can drive it as much as I want for $238 a year.

That is a great looking engine!

Been busy working on my H2O VW and haven't spent alot of time working on the '59. Over the past few weeks, I was finally able to get the 1955 cc engine just about ready to break in on the engine stand. Got most of the small details handled and waiting on some industrial tins to replace the heater boxes. All the cooling tin is painted in PPG shopline generic black. Here are a few pictures:

Did you make your own hard fuel lines for the carbs? Looks great

Heinz57 wrote:
I also went with a new Insurance carrier, Hagarty,  instead of State Farm. I have full coverage, 100/300K and if the car is totaled I receive a very nice Stated Value check which also includes my personal labor as well paid labor costs. This policy is not for DD use, but I can drive it as much as I want for $238 a year.

I have often heard that there are mileage limitations- but this is not the case here. I drive very regularly, but not everyday as I have my big brown cargo freighter. Have also heard that the insured vehicle needs to be garaged too. Is that the case here too?

When Hagerty asked me about the mileage I just say 10,000 a year. They have never asked why, or asked what the odo said as a reference. I have had to use them because of an accident and they were great. Paid quick and wasn't a hassle.
KC
I have never driven one of my cars more than 4k a year... Just piece of mind. I just tell them I like to drive cross country to shows...

Yes I believe it needs to be garaged. Well mine is at least.

Yes I made all the fuel lines was a little tricky to make the mirror image. I used to help a friend when I was a kid at a muffler shop and try to use the same principle on setting up the bends. I need to pick up some 90 boots and terminals tomorrow and drill one hole for the coil relocation mount. The new mount hits the carb linkage.

looking sweet. I can't wait to see it at the shows.

I still have to install the engine compartment carb access windows. It never ends.lol

Lookin good danny.

Heinz57 wrote:I still have to install the engine compartment carb access windows. It never ends.lol

Are you using something like these?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=989492

Yes with a 4" x 4" opening. Just large enough to get my hands on the manifold, sparkplugs and to the carb adjustment screws. Mike made me some out of Stainless steel. That's this upcoming weeks' project.

Heinz57 wrote:Yes with a 4" x 4" opening. Just large enough to get my hands on the manifold, sparkplugs and to the carb adjustment screws. Mike made me some out of Stainless steel. That's this upcoming weeks' project.

Nice!!!   

I've been thinking of adding some to my car- would make plug changes and carb adjustments much easier

When I installed the longblock without the shroud to determine where the carb openings should be, there is no way my hands would even fit to get to the back of the manifolds. No brainer for me, I gotta have them or run a single.

Well here is a long over due update on Wilma. The 1955 cc engine was broken in over at Tim's shop, but ran into a little problem with the
Bug Pack Ceramic coated Street Max 1 5/8" header after the 2 minute mark. It discolored very badly and the actual coating was popping and shooting sparks as the ceramic coating was leaving the header? Wil was actually get small burns on his leg while holding the throttle open. Very strange? I bought the header from Aircooled.net and sent them pictures. They agreed that the coating was most like sprayed over a still oily header and not cleaned at all. They are working to get a replacement one hopefully this week. If I get a replacement one, I won't use it. I will spring for either a Vintage Speed in Stainless or go all out for the A-1 in Stainless.

I also pulled the old main wiring harness out last Sunday. Made a new one Monday night after picking up a 12' of 3/4" PVC sleeve from Mcmaster- Carr. Total time was about 2 hours to build, install, trim and test it. I also did find the correct wire ferrells that get crimped on the wire before you install them on the screw type switches and connections. These are used on the 1960 and earlier cars. I also added to the new harness a tach, oil press and oil temp wires and all the colors and tracers match the OEM VW colors except one. I also made a new tail light harness. The Oil pressure gauge and temp senders are connected at the remote filter and the stock warning light is still in its original place.

Completed and installed 1955: cc


New dash gauges and metal dash grill:


Remote oil filter and mount:


Discolored Bug Pack header:

Engine looks good sitting in there Danny.

Engine looks killer. 

Thats crazy on what happened with the ceramic coating. hope you can get it fixed or replaced. Engine is looking sweet!

We installed J tubes on a motor and the black paint all came off. We just used high heat spray paint, works great.