Torsion Arm Removal

Recently I removed the rear torsion arms from my '64 pan.

This is a tool that I made to safely perform this task.


Install the tool like this....


By tightening the top nut (Threaded Rod Coupling) it raises the torsion arm from the stop that it is resting on.

Next pry the arm out a bit, so it will not rest on the stop when the nut is loosened. Loosen the nut as you pry the arm out, it will slip by the stop and continue to drop as the nut is loosened more.


In the last picture you can also see that I marked the stock location of the torsion arm before it was removed. I also marked the arms location after it was loosened all the way (no pre-load on arm). All this was done so later I could reference where the start point would be before lowering the arm 1 or 2 notches.

In this picture the arm is removed and you can see the marks that I made to show the stock starting point before it was raised and tension (pre-load) placed on the arm. The bottom mark near the bolt hole is the bottom of the torsion arm. As you can see the factory marked the torsion bars left and right, see the "L" on the end of the bar. I have everything marked with deep marks so when the pan is painted then I'll still see the marks.




I used this electric ziz to make the marks. It works very well if you are interested in cutting body panels.

very cool, ill need something like that when i lower the rear a notch

Option 2...if you don't want to make a tool.

http://www.meyersmanx.com/garage/garage_suspend.htm

Never have seen that one Glenn, knew about the jack and chain though. They marked theirs too.

I could've used that tool when I did the plates on my buggy. The jack method didn't work all that well when it was just a pan. Every time I tried to jack the arm, the front of the car would come off the ground. I had to stack all kinds of stuff on the front (including Lara) to keep it from popping up. The Manx method would work better with the beam, wheels, body, ect mounted up.

I generally like to use sketchy tools, jacks, c clamps and such. A busted shin, smashed finger and a fair amount of blood loss say "job well done".

bunch of sissies! i've never used a tool to lower the rear! now me and my6 fingers are ok! lol!

bumblebuggy wrote:I could've used that tool when I did the plates on my buggy. The jack method didn't work all that well when it was just a pan. Every time I tried to jack the arm, the front of the car would come off the ground. I had to stack all kinds of stuff on the front (including Lara) to keep it from popping up. The Manx method would work better with the beam, wheels, body, ect mounted up.

And to think that you said my spring compressor in the super beetle front end rebuild thread looked scary......................

Saw this on the Samba the other day and wanted to add it here. There have been a few posts about re-indexing springplates and measuring their angles. Most posts mention using a inclinometer to measure the spring plate angle to know how many splines you want to go up or down. These are about $10 at homedepot, but there is now an app for smart phones that will do this same thing. XClinometer is the one I downloaded. Tested it against my store bought tool and the app was pretty much right on. Sorry the phone is kinda dark, I think the flash on the camera did that.

fluxcap wrote:Saw this on the Samba the other day and wanted to add it here. There have been a few posts about re-indexing springplates and measuring their angles. Most posts mention using a inclinometer to measure the spring plate angle to know how many splines you want to go up or down. These are about $10 at homedepot, but there is now an app for smart phones that will do this same thing. XClinometer is the one I downloaded. Tested it against my store bought tool and the app was pretty much right on. Sorry the phone is kinda dark, I think the flash on the camera did that.

Nice!!! Would have never thought of that!

I've been using a protractor like that for a while now. Mainly to make sure both sides are at the same angle.

you guys just be sure you're careful with those spring plates. you wouldn't want them to come off and break your legs/arms or or start spinning like a helicopter and cut through the body

callahan wrote:you guys just be sure you're careful with those spring plates. you wouldn't want them to come off and break your legs/arms or or start spinning like a helicopter and cut through the body

bakertim2 wrote:I've been using a protractor like that for a while now. Mainly to make sure both sides are at the same angle.

callahan wrote:you guys just be sure you're careful with those spring plates. you wouldn't want them to come off and break your legs/arms or or start spinning like a helicopter and cut through the body

I've seen the inclinometer used before, I've just never seen the phone app.

ill have to remember that and thanks for telling me about this sight 750rpm

I have the iHandy app on my iPhone that works the same way.