'67 Beetle "Judy"

make sure u brace that body up before you cut that heater channel off

Thanks. I'm picking up some angle iron on the way home from work tomorrow.

peregrine67 wrote:Picked up Judy's new heater channel and got to work cleaning off all the body sealant. Hopefully this weekend I'll be welding it in and putting the body back on the pan.

Looks like it should just jump right into place- Hope there's not a lot of adjusting and fitting on this one

It doesn't look too complicated. Just time consuming.

is that a top and bottom together ?
if so i would try and get some rust prevention or por15 on the inside
the paint thats on um doesnt really hold up well by its self
i had a customer car that had both sides done and in two years it rusted through in a couple of spots from the inside out

sploval53 wrote:is that a top and bottom together ?
if so i would try and get some rust prevention or por15 on the inside

Good call. I hadn't thought of that. I've got a quart of POR15 already. I'll pour some down there and slosh it around before I install it.
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Good luck with the heater channel install. Looks like it'll be up and driving pretty soon!

fluxcap wrote:Good luck with the heater channel install. Looks like it'll be up and driving pretty soon!

Thanks. That's my goal. I'd really like to drive her to the Sugar Hill show.

Cut the heater channels out today.Didn't come out in one piece like the video but hey, they're out. hopefully gonna install the new ones tomorrow and drop the body back on the pan.
Anybody wanna come help?

I might try and stop by, got a little work to do on the Dart and the '67

What time are you attacking it?

Probably start around 10:00 or so. Just give me a call tomorrow.

Got her put back together. Now to just get everything reconnected and hopefully drving her by the weekend.

tried to bleed the brakes but I couldn't get any fluid to the front wheels. The back circuit worked just fine. Master cylinder?

Most likely. Are soft lines to wheel cylinders old or new? Could be those or wheel cylinder. Most likely master cylinder though. Check see if fluid is in soft lines.

Soft lines are new, wheel cylinders are new. To took the hard line for the fornt circuit off at the master and could get it to pumpanything through the master. I'm going to check to see if the input nozzle for the front circuit is clogged. if not I'll replace the master.

Steering question; So when I put the body back on all of the bolt holes seem to line up just fine. However the steering column seems to be about an inch shorter than it was before. I was just going to buy a couple longer bolts to connect it to the steering box but wanted to make sure this wasn't a symptom of a bigger issue.

Brake question: I was online shopping for new master cylinders. i found them anywhere from $120, $95, $49 down to $14. I'd like to be as frugal as possible with this build but what am I sacrificing if I get the $14 one from O'Reileys verses the $120 OG version?

Did you remove the steering column or the outer column cover tube when you removed the body?

I've always just used the middle of the line $40-50 dollar master cylinders and never had any troubles. Never have used the really cheap ones from the local auto parts place, so I can't speak from experience, but if they are selling it for $14, I can't imagine it would have much quality control built into the price. I'd be a little nervous driving around with one that cheap.

Iinstalled and bled 3 of the $14 mastercylinders before I gave up and bought a $50 and no problem since

Thanks guys. You've echoed my suspicions about the $14 models. I'll pick up the $49 one on th eway home today.

Eric, didn't remove the shaft or tube. I just slid the whole thing up a bit.

Well, if you have enough room, you can always just slide the outer tube towards the front of the car another inch or so. that should allow the steering column to also move forward an extra inch. Just need to make sure you leave enough room for the turn signal switch and steering wheel to fully seat without bottoming out on the dash.

fluxcap wrote:Well, if you have enough room, you can always just slide the outer tube towards the front of the car another inch or so. that should allow the steering column to also move forward an extra inch. Just need to make sure you leave enough room for the turn signal switch and steering wheel to fully seat without bottoming out on the dash.

I'll check that out tonight. I didn't intentionally move it but I could have pushed it up when we were putting the body back on. Thanks.

Got the clutch adjusted pretty well. Had to run to Lowes and buy a few washers.
Found out my braking problem. The only wheel cylinder that I didn't replaces was leaking. picking up a new one and putting it back together this evening.
Probably gonna have to rebuild the carb. My accelerator pump doesn't seem to be working.

New wheel cylinder installed. now to work on the carb. maybe next week I'll be putting a tag on her and driving her to work.

peregrine67 wrote:New wheel cylinder installed. now to work on the carb. maybe next week I'll be putting a tag on her and driving her to work.

YAY! Your hard work WILL pay off!

Sweet. Can,t wait to see her on the road.