(FIXED) need help one of the flathead screws on my adjuster for one of my valves is broke???? and did i adjust my valves right?

picked up a 66 week or 2 ago. went to adjust the valves before i attemped to start her (been sitting for a few years) and the number 1 intake adjuster screw has no head on it? looks like some one went to back it out too much or in too much and broke it. its still in tact just has no grove to stick a flathead in it and turn it. i adjusted the valves. it has a degree pully... i put on tdc then intake and exhaust on number 1. adjuted (well the exhaust) the intake wasent too tight but actually too loose. then rotated counter clock to the oppisite of tdc and adjusted cyl 2. the intake is tight cant even fit a fleer gauge between it no lash??? but did the exhaust. rotated counter clock back to tdc did cyl 3 went fine. then counter clock back to opp of tdc and cyl 4 went fine. this was my first attempt at a valve job. i would like to see if anyone knows what i can do ab the broken adjuster?? and also why is is cyl 2 intake too tight? i backed the adjustment screw all the way out as far as it would go and still so tight that there is no movement??? did i do something wrong? or out of order?

any and all help is highy apprechated.
david.

The pulley will hit TDC at #1 AND #3. Are you sure you started at #1 TDC? You would need to pop your distributor cap and make sure the rotor is at the #1 plug wire. Most distributors will also have a small notch on the rim at the #1 position.

ill check on that. thanks

When I adjust the valves, I start by pulling the valve cover off for cylinders 1 and 2. Then I rotate the engine clockwise until I see the #1 cylinder intake valve open, then close, then continue rotating the engine to tdc. At that point both valve for #1 should be loose. Adjust the valves to .006. After that, I will rotate the engine counter clockwise 180 degrees to bdc and adjust the valves for #2 and repeat for #3 and #4. I have some adjuster screws for you. It looks like you did the adjustment correctly, but maybe didn't get started at the compression stroke for #1.

yeah i was a lil confused when u explaind it to me tim. i understand now.....lol thanks. how do i get the adjustment screw out? will i have to take the head off? or should i be able to try to uncrew it w pliers with the head assembled and on?

Should be able to remove two nuts and just take the rocker arm off, shouldn't be any need to remove the whole head.

ok got cha. but i just went thr and made sure i was doing it right and cyl #2 intake is still tight? i wiggled it thr out me re adjusting all the valves again and it never had any play in it. the adjustment screw is backed all the way out also??????

Can you tell if that valve stem appears higher than the others?

OK so... i took the rocker arm ass off. fixed ther ajuster screw. bolted the rocker arm back on. loosened all the ajusters all the way out. and now the two valves in the middle (intake on 1 & 2 from what i understand) are closed and have no play in them????? i put on tdc... there still tight w no movement. i put on bdc...still no movement? im so confused? i loosend the two bolts holding the rocker arm ass in and then 3 of the 4 will have movement but the nut isint tight??? what did i do? what dident i do?

Just to cover all bases again, are you 100% sure you are on #1 TDC when working on the the #1 valves, and #2 BDC when working on the #2 valves? For each cycle of the engine, the pulley will spin twice so it will hit TDC twice, you have to be on the correct TDC or the valves will not be at rest. Not trying to sound repetitive, but I'm just at a loss dude. I'm no engine expert, so hopefully somebody else with more knowledge will chime in with better advice.

How did the valve stems look when you took the rocker arm off and had a better view. Were the tips all in line with each other, did any look higher or lower?

took the dis cap off and turned it till it said tdc on the degree pully and the rotor button was to strike the #1 plugwire leading to #1 so im sure i did that...lol and i dident look when i took it off. but now it looks like the intakes on 1 and 2 are sticking out farther then the two exhs on the ends...well they are...?>?>? ive taken the rocker off and on a few times and spun the pully every witch way many times seeing if i could get them to move im stooped.

Yeah, I just don't know man. Some of the valves may be higher depending on where they are in the stroke. But if you are at TDC or BDC, the two valves related to whichever cylinder you are on, should both be at rest and level with each other.

yeah....... hopefully some eng expert can put some input in...lol thanks man

I do mine this way its much easier.

watched the video stilll dient help. i followed his instructions and on tdc the exhaust on #1 is loose and can be adjusted but on others on that side (1 and 2 cyl) so i rotated it 360 and checked again still tight? all the adjuster screws are backed all the way out. she was running great the other day. cranked right up and would idle and run. i just wanted to make sure the valves were adjusted before i drove it to prevent any damage. i was wondering if valves could stick? i just dont see what im doring wrong.. and or what it could be????

Try to do one valve at a time. The video may be a little confusing for a beginner. Start with #1. When the engine is @ TDC with the dizzy botton pointed @ #1 (notch on dizzy). Both the #1 pushrods should be able to be spun by hand. If either won't turn, it'll be too tight. If you can put a feeler gauge in there and it doesn't drag slightly (like in the video) it's too loose. Make sure you're looking at the correct cylinder as well. #1 is on the right (passenger) side towards the front of the car as you face the engine. After you've made sure the valves on #1 are good rotate the engine COUNTERCLOCKWISE (to the left) 180 degrees and do the same to #2 (right rear passenger side as you face the engine). Then rotate the engine COUNTERCLOCKWISE (to the left) 180 degrees and do #3 (left front drivers side). Then rotate and adjust for #4. After you've rotated the engine, you will no longer be able to mess with the vavles on the cylinders you've previously adjusted. Some will be tight and others will be loose after you rotate the engine. Only worry about the single cylinder you're working on at the time.

bumblebuggy wrote:Try to do one valve at a time. The video may be a little confusing for a beginner. Start with #1. When the engine is @ TDC with the dizzy botton pointed @ #1 (notch on dizzy). Both the #1 pushrods should be able to be spun by hand. If either won't turn, it'll be too tight. If you can put a feeler gauge in there and it doesn't drag slightly (like in the video) it's too loose. Make sure you're looking at the correct cylinder as well. #1 is on the right (passenger) side towards the front of the car as you face the engine. After you've made sure the valves on #1 are good rotate the engine COUNTERCLOCKWISE (to the left) 180 degrees and do the same to #2 (right rear passenger side as you face the engine). Then rotate the engine COUNTERCLOCKWISE (to the left) 180 degrees and do #3 (left front drivers side). Then rotate and adjust for #4. After you've rotated the engine, you will no longer be able to mess with the vavles on the cylinders you've previously adjusted. Some will be tight and others will be loose after you rotate the engine. Only worry about the single cylinder you're working on at the time.

Turn crank pulley till notch or TDC is lined up with seam in case. Check all valves for looseness. 4 valves should be loose, 1 loose by itself on one side of the engine and 3 loose on the other side. ADJUST THOSE LOOSE VALVES. Rotate the engine in the direction that it runs, cloclwise one turn or 360deg, notch or TDC at case seam again and you will have 4 valves loose, this time oposite of what you had before. The side with the 1 loose valve will now have 3 loose and the side with 3 loose valves will now have just 1 loose valve. ADJUST THOSE LOOSE VALVES. Clean covers, apply gasket glue and install new gaskets.

Confusing

There is just something about turning the engine backwards/counterclockwise that doesn't seem right. To me if the cam/crank gears are warn ANY you might have a 4-6 thousanths clearance which will change the gap on the valves that you just set when the engine is turned in the direction of operation, clockwise.

If you have messed the valve adjustments up or they are now out of sequence with the relationship to the cycle that the cylinder is on (intake, comp, power, exhaust) then you will have to start over like Glenn has instructed. But when it comes to just checking your valves this is the easiest and most accurate way to do so. Rotating the engine in the direction of operation keeps all the internal clearances the same giving you the best result.

You and I are both drivers Bob so there is validity in the way we each go about maintaining our cars. I've been adjusting my valves this way for 15 years. To my knowledge, you will hurt nothing by turning an engine backwards. As a matter of fact, it's a method to get an aircraft engine unflooded by turning the prop (crank) in the opposite direction of rotation. I don't believe anyone in the aircraft industry would ever recommend turning a $25K engine backwards if there were any adverse effects. With the Muir method (as I explained it) he's working with one set of valves at a time and he can eliminate any problems with each individual cylinder as he goes. Just trying to help the dude sort it out by going back to basics.

All you have to do is turn the engine until one cylinders valves are closed ( springs fully extended), and they STAY closed even if you turn the engine 40 degrees more or so. as long as the valves are completely closed, it doesnt matter which one you start with. At that point, they will each close in order every time you turn the engine 180. Finding number one cylinder is only a reference point that allows you to do them in order with each turn.

Gotcha Glenn not arguing with ya and I don't think it will hurt the engine either. Just don't like the idea that the clearances come into play in rolling it backwards. Newer engines may not have as much but one with high miles might affect the final out come. Just my 2 cents worth. As mentioned above we could just turn it till the next cylinder is ready.

ok guys so i figured out what the problem was. i was adjusting them right the whole time i was so confused why the 2 intakes were so extreamly tight. when i took the rocker assembly off to fix the adjuster screw i dident pay attention to the top of the rocker arms. theres a flat spot that pivots, a bearing i assume the shape of half a circle. somewhow when i was putting the rocker assembly back on 2 of the bearings got spun around so, insted of the valve resting on the flat spot of the bearing on the top of the rocker arm where u do ur adjustments they were resting on the round part pushing them in. lol well at least i learned something.

thanks guys for ur help. now i really know how to adjust them 2 ways...lol

Glad you got it worked out.