Vented valve covers

I am evidently having an oil leak due to bad breathing. Not me, the THING.

I want to install vented valve covers and a breather box, or something like that..will the engine I have- 1835- need special valve covers? Or will 1600 or similar size fit?
Anyone have a suggested oil breather or valve cover?

stock will work , or you can buy after market ones ,

I have found some, does it make sense to stick with the bail clipped covers, or go to bolt on? If you get bolt on do you have to drill and tap?

you can go with bail clips or the kits come with the nuts you can us to put bolt in the valve cover no drilling needed

Ok ,,thanks for that

I would stay with the original bails. The bolt ons work, but can leak due to expansion differences.

thanks how hard is it to find covers like that for an 1835 cc engine?
I actually found an oil breather in my parts bin. Takes 2 lines in and two out.

Any 1600 valve cover and bails will fit.

thanks I am a bit confused about all that.. now onto finding a set..

Most of the time you shouldnt need added crank case ventilation. Blow by is a bigger concern. There is a lot of debate on that, but from my experience the stock system should be sufficient so long as you got a good seat with your rings. My 1776 was blowing oil until I replaced the rings. Nothing else changed and the oil leak went away. Some people swear by vents, some say they aren't needed. and 1835 isn't that much bigger than stock.

Maybe so but this is a fairly new engine which runs great. I guess since I already have a breather box and all I need is valve cover vents and hose, I can try it.

Anyone else think its easier to drill the present covers and buy the vents then get new covers? Sure is less $

Mine was new too. Rings never seated. But its hard to know for sure. I would drill the valve covers That are on it.

Ok cool thanks

Remember, the 3/4 side of the engine always has more oil in the valve cover so its possible to push oil into your vent system. You might look into a venting elsewhere, like the generator stand and the fuel pump. I thought about the vent on my current 1776, but just didnt want the added crap to remove when I needed to take the engine out. Luckily, rings fixed my issue.

Mineral oil is essential to ring seating. The correct ring seating procedure is a must as well. If the rings havent seated a whole buch of combustion gasses end up in the case. A pressurised case blows oil. Vents are masking the issue.

Hookdriver wrote:Mineral oil is essential to ring seating. The correct ring seating procedure is a must as well...

I replaced rings and pistons a little over a year ago and do not remember anything about mineral oil. I also have had heat issues since and suspect this could be part of the issue.

Could you expound on this procedure?

JWILL wrote:

Hookdriver wrote:Mineral oil is essential to ring seating. The correct ring seating procedure is a must as well...

I replaced rings and pistons a little over a year ago and do not remember anything about mineral oil.  I also have had heat issues since and suspect this could be part of the issue.

Could you expound on this procedure?

In short the piston rings have to "wear" into the cylinders. Which is why you hone the cylinders instead of polishing them. They will wear down and make a perfect fit. To do so requires regular oil (not synthetic) or a break in oil. If the procedire wasn't done, you will generally have to tear the motor back down and hone the cylinders again, and do the break in procedure. If you just want to fix the blow by issue temporarily, vented valve covers, a breather box, and run a line to the air filter if possible. If you can weld, you can just weld an AN or hose barb bung onto your current valve covers and run your lines off them. A bulkhead fitting may also work if you can't weld. Summit racing has them.

And just so you know, pretty much any type 1 engine uses the same valve covers because they are the same motor. An 1835, 1776, or 1915, or pretty much any motor 1600 or higher is a 1600, with a stroker crank and/or larger cylinders. The blocks and heads and all of that are the same, so don't let the numbers confuse you.

The heat issue could be in part to the excess blow by. Could also be the tin. If you have aftermarket tin, that stuff is fairly notorious for large gaps, and just not fitting correctly. Any missing tin could also contribute. No hoses on the heaterboxes if you have them, stuck piston to oil cooler blocking flow, too lean, etc. Lots of reasons for overheating. Just gotta go through it and see what's going on