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72 BAY with a upright motor

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72 BAY with a upright motor Empty 72 BAY with a upright motor

Post by 67vdub Fri May 10, 2013 9:44 pm

OK driving down the road. Motor stalls no gas in the filter. Pull the hose off filter gas in line. Hook it all back up start it up almost no gas in filter just enough to run press the gas stalls. OK not getting gas to the carbs. Bad pump I cruz home in 1st and 10 mph. I think i am going to Electric Fuel Pump. What works best?

Also when i was driving it acted like it was starving for gas 1641 upright.

OK

Get it home back it in the spot turn the key and still runing. What to do to fix it? I pulled the coil to kill the motor but still had power I pulled the battery to kill the power. ???????????????

Thanks for any help
67vdub
67vdub
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Post by Muffler Bearing Fri May 10, 2013 11:32 pm

Take the fuel cap off then run it and see what happens.
Muffler Bearing
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Post by 67vdub Sat May 11, 2013 12:17 am

I tried that did not help. I know someone who had the same issue. Wink
67vdub
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Post by Attack chicken Sat May 11, 2013 8:08 pm

Electric pump set up as a pusher is the best way. You can get the pumps that are set up for import carbs(mr gasket is one brand) and it will be regulated at around 2 psi, they flow good enough volume for the engine you have and can be picked up at most auto parts stores. You can get the power for it from the positive side if the coil, just put a inline fuse in. The closer to the tank you can get it the better it will work. Keep all lines away from any kind of heat source. If the engine is getting too hot it can prevent the mechanical pump from actually pumping by holding the pushrod in the plastic guide/pump base, you may want to double check the basics like tin, engine bay seal and the typical tune up junk like timing and valve settings. As for the engine run on after the key is turned off, something is back feeding power to the ignition system at least,could be other items as well but you would have to check what is still working when the key is off, that would give you a idea of what could be included in the back feed. A example of this would be if the blower motor for the heat still works when the key is out, or if the radio or dash is still lit up. It may just be something feeding the coil only. How many wires do you have on the positive side of the coil right now? When the battery is disconnected and hooked back up does the power to the coil go away? Could always be a bad ignition switch also and that could keep everything powered up.

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Post by 67vdub Sat May 11, 2013 8:55 pm

Tonight I picked up a new pump the pusher type. Also ordered the eltc switch behind the key. As far as tins and the motor. The motor is all brand new 100 % new. The bus was set up for a pancake motor I'm going to order the fiberglass from car craft kit that is for the motor for a bus. To help keep it cool. This bus was under a tree for 12 years who knows what all is going to go wrong with it. Sad But its mine and I went to long with out a VW.

Thanks for your help


Last edited by 67vdub on Sat May 11, 2013 9:00 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Did not finish iPhone type O)
67vdub
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