What did you do to your volkswagen today?

I think it's looks real good but most anything would look better than that purple.

Had the toe set. I've all but fried my brand new tires I put on the front about a month and a half ago. Live and learn.

Painted the roof rack, rear fenders, left rear quarter, washed it, vacuumed it, and cleaned the wheels and tires in preparation for the trip to Tampa. Not bad for spray paint...

Before


After

Looks great and clean to me.

69panel wrote:Looks great and clean to me.

Thanks

Not to bad at all for spray paint! Looks good man.

That looks awesome- Have a great trip and take/post lotsa pics.

Replaced the passenger side, outside window scraper. It was time consuming but not as painful as some made it out. I am going to document the drivers side.

Well cleaned the front apron with a grinder. Re-wiped the filler this time more than before. After stick blocking with 80 grit I just had a few pin holes and low spots. I hit those with Metalglaze filler. Reblocked with 180 grit and shot sealer on it. I'll shoot 2K high build primer next.

The round disc in the front apron had been pushed in slightly and I tapped it out as much as I could. I had to pull the disc and put filler all round it and worry about how I'd clean up the indentation for the disc to sit flush.

I thought and thought about it and came up with using a two and a half inch hole saw...just the blade. I carefully turned it by hand backwards to the cut at first to establish a lip that was centered. Then carefully turned it in the direction of the cut and it worked out excellent. It's tighter than factory was.

Well, I rolled 00000.0 in Big Bird.


And I got the refrigerator working in Winifrid.

Today I picked up my 1970 Type II Safare' . Yeh look that one up one internet It looks like a riviara but the inside configuration is totaly different from anything I have ever seen. I'll post pics later.

Went out and started Toby up and let it run for a few of the jump box. Just sitting in it while idling and revving it up a bit made me want to do anything to get it back on the road, need disposable income, "holding sign" -->will work for vw parts<--

The real question is what I didn't do. This is a little long but I just had to share my day.
I had a oil leak on my Bus soI went into work Sat. to fix it.
I was pretty sure it was the rear main seal and oil cooler leaking so I pulled the motor, I was wrong. Whoever built this motor in my Bus had no idea what they were doing. First thing we found was the seal on the output shaft was leaking. No big deal, quick fix. I still had an oil leak that I needed to find. Turns out it looks like the pushrod tubes are leaking. Somebody put those adj. spring loaded tubes on (instant leak). Sooo, I decided to change back to stock pushrod tubes. I start tearing off all the tin and then the heads. Both heads had cracks and cylinder 1,2,and 4 had the plugs cross threaded. Cylinder 3 had an insert installed in the plug hole with a huge Ford spark plug in it. . Also , one of the heads had chunks out of it where the exhaust bolted to it. So I found 2 used heads at work and rebuilt them and did a complete valve job on them. You would think that now all I had to do is reinstall the heads and I would be done, nope. I put the heads on and as I'm tightning the head bolts two of the snapped in half on one of the heads. I find it is more of the previous owners brilliant work. When they put this motor together they broke 2 studs at some point. Most people would put to new ones in and fix it right? Not here, instead they took the broken ones and spot welded them back together and put them back in the motor. No I'm not kidding.
Now I had to pull the head back off and get the broken studs out and replace with new ones. Granted I should have seen that before I started putting the heads back on but the welds were in the area by the jugs so I didn't see them. Plus, who thinks to look for welded head studs! I mean really, who does that!? Now the motor is back together and ready to put in then I realize there was no throttle tube. I go back and look at the cable on the Bus and it is all frayed where itgoes in the fan shroud. Now I had to replace the throttle cable and install a throttle tube. Before I installed the motor I replaced all 4 cv boots because they were all non existent. That is not a quick task by the way. While I'm under there I notice where the upper trans support bolts to the body is cracked. There is no rust there so I'm not exactly sure what happend but it was broke. That is what was making a clunking noise over bumps. So I welded that up while I was under there. Now I put the motor in and was ready to fire it up. Bus starts right up and seems to be good. The Gen. light was staying on though. After some searching I finally found the problem. The Gen. has one of those chrome covers around it (should have taken it off) and it shifted just enough when I put everthing back together so that it was touching the +post on the Gen. which was the problem. I bent the chrome cover up a little and problem fixed. Buster seems to be running good now. There was a lot of other things I had to fix too yesterday, clutch cable was routed wrong, throttle cable was routed wrong and the tube was cut in half at one point, was missing a top motor mount bolt, and several other little things. I still need to do a few things but for yesterday that was enough.
Oh yeah, did I mention I did this after working at the shop Fri. till 7:30 then went home had dinner and showerd so I could go work a lock in at the YMCA till 8 Sat. morning. Then back home to change to go into the shop to work on Buster till 11:30 Sat. night. Yep, I'M TIRED

I pulled the engine out of my 74 thursday, put in a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate friday, installed it and tuned it up last night.

Wow Gary! That is crazy!

Did you check the rods to see if they were still tight on the crank? There may be other short cuts on the inside of the engine that you may want to revisit. I had my throttle cable fray and then brake on me on the may home from work a few months ago. When I replaced it, I went with the solid steel cable. I also put in a new tube because the cable broke from rubbing on the warn lip of the tube.

aircooledaddicts wrote:The real question is what I didn't do. This is a little long but I just had to share my day.
I had a oil leak on my Bus soI went into work Sat. to fix it.
I was pretty sure it was the rear main seal and oil cooler leaking so I pulled the motor, I was wrong. Whoever built this motor in my Bus had no idea what they were doing. First thing we found was the seal on the output shaft was leaking. No big deal, quick fix. I still had an oil leak that I needed to find. Turns out it looks like the pushrod tubes are leaking. Somebody put those adj. spring loaded tubes on (instant leak). Sooo, I decided to change back to stock pushrod tubes. I start tearing off all the tin and then the heads. Both heads had cracks and cylinder 1,2,and 4 had the plugs cross threaded. Cylinder 3 had an insert installed in the plug hole with a huge Ford spark plug in it. . Also , one of the heads had chunks out of it where the exhaust bolted to it. So I found 2 used heads at work and rebuilt them and did a complete valve job on them. You would think that now all I had to do is reinstall the heads and I would be done, nope. I put the heads on and as I'm tightning the head bolts two of the snapped in half on one of the heads. I find it is more of the previous owners brilliant work. When they put this motor together they broke 2 studs at some point. Most people would put to new ones in and fix it right? Not here, instead they took the broken ones and spot welded them back together and put them back in the motor. No I'm not kidding.
Now I had to pull the head back off and get the broken studs out and replace with new ones. Granted I should have seen that before I started putting the heads back on but the welds were in the area by the jugs so I didn't see them. Plus, who thinks to look for welded head studs! I mean really, who does that!? Now the motor is back together and ready to put in then I realize there was no throttle tube. I go back and look at the cable on the Bus and it is all frayed where itgoes in the fan shroud. Now I had to replace the throttle cable and install a throttle tube. Before I installed the motor I replaced all 4 cv boots because they were all non existent. That is not a quick task by the way. While I'm under there I notice where the upper trans support bolts to the body is cracked. There is no rust there so I'm not exactly sure what happend but it was broke. That is what was making a clunking noise over bumps. So I welded that up while I was under there. Now I put the motor in and was ready to fire it up. Bus starts right up and seems to be good. The Gen. light was staying on though. After some searching I finally found the problem. The Gen. has one of those chrome covers around it (should have taken it off) and it shifted just enough when I put everthing back together so that it was touching the +post on the Gen. which was the problem. I bent the chrome cover up a little and problem fixed. Buster seems to be running good now. There was a lot of other things I had to fix too yesterday, clutch cable was routed wrong, throttle cable was routed wrong and the tube was cut in half at one point, was missing a top motor mount bolt, and several other little things. I still need to do a few things but for yesterday that was enough.
Oh yeah, did I mention I did this after working at the shop Fri. till 7:30 then went home had dinner and showerd so I could go work a lock in at the YMCA till 8 Sat. morning. Then back home to change to go into the shop to work on Buster till 11:30 Sat. night. Yep, I'M TIRED

Yeah I did check the rods and they seemed o.k. However, cylinder 1 had a lot of oil in it so I think the rings are bad. It smokes in the morning more than it should and thats probably the problem. I would have gone ahead and replaced them Sat. but we didn't have any in stock for it. I am probably going to just let it be and slowly build me a 1776 with a mild cam at work . That way I will know it is right from the crank out. It will be a while though.

I fit the new apron while the rear fenders were still on. Then I welded in the new rear apron and ground the welds flush. The channels that the engine deck lid seals fit in did not line up. I had to bust a few welds on the new apron and relocate the channels to match those on the body. I wiped the apron with filler and blocked it out. I shot etching primer on the bare metal showing. I will 2 K prime later and prime the front apron at the same time. I torched a quarter moon relief where the exhaust pipes were rubbing the body and causing a horrible rattle.

I pulled the rear fenders and tail light assemblies and marked the wires where they go. I welded the bumper bracket holes shut. I'll grind and fill them later.

For the last week I've been using my E-brake to stop, Today I put new brake shoes on , and then I lost a hubcap and beauty ring

65veedub wrote:For the last week I've been using my E-brake to stop, Today I put new brake shoes on , and then I lost a hubcap and beauty ring

Brakes working good now?

Yes! I can stop and that's a good thing

Pulled a 68 tranny out of a car for the buses straight axle.

Then me and Duck flipped a ghia on its side and pulled the pan out of it to put my thing on

Also found a set of wheels for the bus today and a front clip for Ashley's car.

My son and I pulled the ugly window tint off of Buster. It looks a lot better now.

I finally quit living dangerously. Took the 145 I bought at Bugjam to the tire shop and swapped it out with the 165 on my spare rim. The 165 wouldn't quite fit in the spare well, but the 145 is in with lots of extra room. Now I have a spare! Hope I don't need to use it anytime soon.

The back glass was already out and I chased rust around the back glass channel and the engine vents. I welded up holes with small patches of metal in the rear fender inner panels where the PO had drilled out the spot welds to remove the old apron. I say drilled, it really looks like he ripped it off after getting close. I'm not judging him because I don't know how much of a pain rear aprons are to remove.

I spent a while adjusting the rear deck lid for a better fit. Adjusting the gap at the top is easy with the four hinge bolts. The rest I learned is a matter of muscling it into submission. By that I mean grabbing it with both hands and bending it this way and that. It includes some well placed blocks of wood in the upper corners and forcing the lid down so the lid will flush up to the body line coming down the roof. I spent a lot of time because every change I made better on one side the other side changed as well. It wound up being a compromise. I have a new appreciation of near, perfectly fitting deck lids I see on bugs at shows.

Took the J pipes off and put the heater boxes in yesterday. These 30 degree mornings was getting old with no heat. It was nice and warm in there this morning going to breakfast.