Hot as hell brakes

I knew I had a brake or two dragging from the inability to coast at times and the rock hard peddle but today I was towing it back from getting my Dodge repaired and when I got home I noticed a problem. The car was out of gear, e brake off and when I got home all four wheels and hub caps were too hot to touch. What would cause all four to lock up. I plan to do the brake job tomorrow. Just need ideas of what to look for.

Have you tried just adjusting them? Maybe they were adjusted to tight last time.

aircooledaddicts wrote:Have you tried just adjusting them? Maybe they were adjusted to tight last time.

I have not. I will have it off the ground tomorrow and learn more.

Replace all the rubber lines. Sometimes, when they get old, they allow fluid to go to the brake when you hit the pedal but won't allow the fluid to return thus causing the shoes to drag.

yep If your not sure try to blow though them with your mouth if you can there good if not there bad

Or you could try sucking on them....

Clyde wrote:Or you could try sucking on them....

MMMM. I bet that will taste good

To start, everything the other day was locked up. Yesterday when I got it off the ground everything spins like a top. Go figure. Once I got everything apart I found that the pads were cracking, one leaking wheel cylinder, shoes and a leaky master cylinder. To be on the safe side I'm going to replace the master, one wheel cylinder and all the soft lines. Three questions:
1. My soft lines look like fuel line. Is this correct?
2. What holds them on the hard line? Only on one does it have a zip tie.
3. Do the rusty hard lines seen below pose a problem?

Those are just the resevoir lines and yes they look like fuel line. When they are talking about the soft lines they are talking about the brake hoses that are at the wheels.

Attorney Isaiah Loophole wrote:Those are just the resevoir lines and yes they look like fuel line. When they are talking about the soft lines they are talking about the brake hoses that are at the wheels.

OK. Let me get this straight. The lines coming from the reservoir to the master are low to no pressure lines. Basically an IV drip. Then leaves the master via steel lines to a union where is couples to a soft flexible line that feeds the wheel cylinder. Is this correct? And my problem might lie in the soft lines? I'm leaning more towards a master due to all four having problems.

aircooledaddicts wrote:Have you tried just adjusting them? Maybe they were adjusted to tight last time.

I was unable to check the adjustment because the peddle was all the way out, with no play and rock hard. It later broke free but by that time I had everything apart. And here's a bonus tip my fellow VW dipshits, like myself. When you have everything removed and press the peddle to see how much movement there is and wonder why it's so easy so you press even more.............it blows the wheel cylinder boots off and get brake fluid everywhere.

Oh and Clyde..............It taste like shit and burns your eyes!

Yeh you defenatly don't want it in your eyes.
On a serious note. hose soft lines going to your master cylinder may not be totaly correct. Over the years they have seen many variations. You should however clean the rust off of the hard lines were they connect, this could be a souce of contamination. When you get ready to put it all back together you should use some worm clams to prevent the lines from seeping or inadvertantly coming off.
I may be a smart a$$ but I can work on a car.

Those metal tubes going to the master from the reservoir should be positioned in such a way that the blue flexible hose should need very little bend. The bend on the leaky inlet fitting is likely due to the stress from the bend in the hose. There's no pressure here and no reason for a leak. Normally there is no need for clamps here- or zip ties- if using German blue 7mm hose.

And remember to check for free play at the master cyl. push rod before you bleed the system.

Good job so far!

One broken gear puller, two busted knuckles and a garage full of carnage and the bitch is off. Any one have any tips for removing a rear hub that will move forward and back on the shaft about an inch but no further? It was very springy at the end an would go no further. I begged, I pleaded and then I smashed the fuck out of it with an 8lb sledge. Problem solved............I think............or........problem created!

Hey Dude, did any of us tell you to back the shoes off with the adjusters BEFORE you try to pull the drum off?

I take the air hammer to the lip of drums that wont come loose and usually it will take it off in less than a minute.

Hobug wrote:Hey Dude, did any of us tell you to back the shoes off with the adjusters BEFORE you try to pull the drum off?

Adjusters? No, they were all the way out, the drum would spin on the shoes without dragging and I could get it out far enough to see a separation between the shoe and the drum. I have no clue what it was hung on but it would not move that last inch so I gave it a little gentle persuasion.

Shoes wearing into the drums will create a ridge around the drum (lip) Need to adjust the shoes or adjuster all the way in and then try and take them off.
This lip will need to be turned off when the drum is turned on the lathe.

votwing wrote:Shoes wearing into the drums will create a ridge around the drum (lip) Need to adjust the shoes or adjuster all the way in and then try and take them off.
This lip will need to be turned off when the drum is turned on the lathe.

You think I can turn it?

sure Turn it around and around

Read the last post before looking at picture
You should have not done that
If you have to use a sledge hammer to remove something
Then something is wrong
But I guess I don't have to tell you that

New reality show: "Scott's Gentle Garage"