New found power!

I have and will continue to battle the 009 and progressive combo in the bus but I have made a change that has resulted in some awesome results and one new problem. I reversed (turned 180) my carb. The throttle cable exited the tin on the LH side looking at the engine. That, coupled with the action of the throttle linkage limited is range of motion to about 1/3. I reversed the carb, rerouted the throttle cable and lengthened the fuel line to match. I now have full range of motion and it will actually engage the progressive (2nd barrel) part. I set the idle, checked dwell and timing, took her for a spin and DAMN! I have a race car. Power off the line, power up the hill and the bow (nose down) attitude at start off, from the 009 has somewhat been helped or at least it seams that way.

Now for the problem. 27 Dwell (8cyl scale), 28 degrees full advance, 800 rpm and now she back fires on the decell or when using the clutch as a brake (going down a hill in 2nd) sort of?? By that I mean it's not really a standard "pop" that I am use to in a back fire. The sound can be best described with the word PUNT. Rev to 2000 rpm, release the throttle and PUNT, PUNT, PUNT until it gets back around 1200-1000 rpms. It is not out of the carb and not fully out of the pipe. I know that might be nuts but some of the sound seems to be coming from mid engine, underneath the bus. I have advanced and retarded the timing a few degrees but I didn't really notice a difference. Could there be something with the new orientation of the carb?

Thanks in advance!

hi i had the same problems with the throttle cable. i simply took the arm off the carb, and flipped it upside down, and around, so it sticks straight out (pointing backwards), then drilled a hole thru the arm, and bent the end of the cable in a "S" shape. i will do a little bit of wedling on the arm to get it to work better.

As for the backfiring thing. Mine does it to. when i rev it, and let off it backfires. and when i downshift to slow down it backfires. I thought it had something to do with the turbo, but i guess its the carb. i've been told the same thing over and over, and thats that you have to proberly jet and tune the carb. i don't know of any shops that will do that for you. but i sure wish i could find one to. if i find any, i'll be sure to let ya know. here's a pic of my set-up and linkage:







long live the hoodride turbo

.

.

You would have full range if the throttle cable exited 4" above where it is. You have done the best on a bug but the throttle cable on the bus exits the tin 6" down and 8" to the left of the carb so it's natural tendency was to pull from the side. The PO bent the linkage in attempts to bring it closer but the geometry just wasn't there. With the carb flipped (opposite of yours) there is a hole in the tin that is just to the right of the carb and level with the linkage. CIP1 has a linkage correction that would work on your set up. http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-43-0602

Bugman114 wrote:

i don't know of any shops that will do that for you. but i sure wish i could find one to. if i find any, i'll be sure to let ya know.
.

proflow in Hiram near Atlanta should be able to handle it.

Try playing with the dwell. My old vert would do the same with the points tight. Good way to set off car alarms and makes small flames at night!