Engine From Hell

OK, I am trying to get the damn gland nut off and I am at a loss. 500 ft lb tq impact wrench and nothing, gallons of PB and nothing, angle iron with a 1/2" breaker and........


3/4" breaker and........


and at the advise of the idiot manual "use a sharp chisel and hit about 1/4" back from tip of one side" and......


It sheers off. I had the angle iron on it, wife standing on the opposite head, 24" 3/4" breaker bar with a 4' cheater and nothing but !!snap!!. Tomorrow, unless you guys have an idea, I will be borrowing my father-in-laws 1" impact wrench. 1200ft lb tq and get it.

A picture is worth a thousand words!

If you don't have one.. GET ONE!

rpm750 wrote:A picture is worth a thousand words!

If you don't have one.. GET ONE!

that was the best money I ever spent. there is no substitute...

Yep, the torque tool will take gland nuts and rear axle nuts without you even breaking a sweat! They are only around $65 and you'll use it over and over. I know this probably won't help you now since you already have the engine out and need the nut off NOW, but you should look into getting one for the future. Until then, maybe one of the guys in your area has one you can borrow. Even if you have to drive 30 or so minutes to pick it up, you'll be glad you did!

i hope those breaker bars were craftsman, lol. be sure to put some antisieze on there when you get the new nut on. i used antisieze on my gland nuts, and axle nuts. never had a problem trying to get them off again.

P.S. seriously, why the hell do they call it a gland nut? its obviously a really fat bolt. why not gland bolt. i guess it just doesn't sound as cool

rpm750 wrote:A picture is worth a thousand words!

If you don't have one.. GET ONE!

Scott, I have one of these if you want to borrow it.

I may have to take you up on that. Thanks, I'll let you know.

You can always use my BA torque wrench............I garuteeeee it will git that sucker off!!

Alright Eric, You're up to bat. 250lb and 650lb tq impact wrench, chisel and nothing.........not 1mm. PM sent

39coupe wrote:

rpm750 wrote:A picture is worth a thousand words!

If you don't have one.. GET ONE!

Scott, I have one of these if you want to borrow it.

Everyone should have one in their toolbox! Or at least have one even if you don't have a tool box!

Thanks to Eric (39coupe), I now have the gland nut off. It didn't happen like I've seen in the videos. I put the torque multiplier on, applied a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 7/16" socket, put my ass in to it and.......................nothing. So, I put on a 4' cheater and ......................snap!. There's a trip to Sears for a ratchet replacement. Then I put on a box end wrench, 6' cheater pipe, balanced myself with with a broom and climbed on...........nothing. So I bounced and bounced and bounced and eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeek! Finally, the damn thing is off!

So, for someone smarter than me, please figure out the total torque value of a torque multiplier, 6' cheater with 208lbs on the end..........bouncing.

There was half a bottle of red loc tite on the damn thing.

hahaha, nice. a little heat would have prolly helped, lol

208 lbs on a 6' bar on the torque multiplier, thats a sh!tload of force! Glad you finally got it off, probably won't use that much loctite on reassembly though

shit, maybe anti sieze would be better, lol

Don't use loctite on that thing. The torque will be enough to hold it in place.

I put mine on with a 3/8 ratchet. That tool multiplies the torque on the roller on the fly, x9.

I have renamed this "The Engine From Hell". So........I got the gland nut off, flywheel off and then the dreaded heads. All but four of the nuts came off, the rest came with the case bolts. This might be common but a 15mm on a 3/8" ratchet with a 6' cheater and again my fat ass on the other end, just to break torque..........I think is a little extreme. Heads off, jugs off and now the pulley.........oh shit! I put on the CIP1 finest China pulley puller and it straightened out like it was made with four coke cans. So, I load up the engine and take it over to the local auto center and he breaks his Snap On puller and said he was afraid to put to much more on his harmonic balancer. So I bring it back home and let the carnage begin. Whack it from behind with a very large screw driver, nothing. Heat it, whack it and nothing. Steel wedge between it and the case with a 2lb hammer and.....................nothing. Well, I did break my hammer.
So then I set put for revenge. I bring out the 8lb sledge hammer and start FU*^*ING wailing. At this point my blood pressure was off the scale, I was at whits end and ready to kill something.

Oh and here is the kicker.................the F*&^ING pulley is still on!

NEXT!


and then.....


It will come off!

"Oh look- Scott must be working on that pully again..."[img][/img]

That is crazy! You have more patience than I do. I would have got mad and took the sledge to the whole engine.

there must be loctite on the pully as well, lol. i would just aim the tourch on the pulley, walk away for 10 mins, come back when its red hot, and take that fucker off

otherwuse, just cut as much pulley off as you can, then split the case, and grind away till you break thru, and it comes off. i'd prolly find the key, and grind on top of that. better to grind away at the key, then the crank itself.

Oh, and your engine is friggin heaven compared to mine. i had the same issues with my car, except now i keep having exhaust leaks, and the heads keep comming loose. VERY ANONYING. the heads are tourqued down to 30FT.LBS, and they still keep comming loose. next time maybe i'll use two nuts, or maybe i'll use a shit load of red locktite, or maybe I'LL JUST WELD THE DAMN NUTS TO THE STUDS !!!!!! i just want to drive the damn thing till it blows up.

sorry rant over

I'm with Gary. I'd have taken that sledge to the whole block. You have the patience of Job my friend.

Looks like you're going to need a new crank by the time this is all over