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My 65 Beetle Leela

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Post by 86vwgti8v Mon Jul 11, 2011 7:55 pm

Not sure what you mean by that. Seems like everything can only go together one way with the exception of the D plate. On that note what is the correct position of that? I got one today, replaced the rear bushing but still can't get jack to work right...
And that spring is supposed to be in under the shifter? It seems to work better without it.

Very frustrating to spend 2 hours today and get nowhere.
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Post by fluxcap Mon Jul 11, 2011 8:08 pm

I believe the shift rod plate goes like this. (top of picture is front of car)
My 65 Beetle Leela - Page 4 411516

Did you check the shift rod bushing in the hanger? Seriously, if you think it was frutstrating today, just wait until you get it back together and find it still shifts like crap. That bushing needs to be in good shape to get good shifts. Easier to check/change it now!

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Post by 86vwgti8v Mon Jul 11, 2011 8:33 pm

I guess tomorrow I will pull the rod.
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Post by fluxcap Mon Jul 11, 2011 8:40 pm

Well, you can use a flashlight and look down the shifter hole and give the bushing a good looking at. Just make sure it's still in one piece and not cracked all to hell. They do deteriorate though, so it definitely wouldn't hurt to change it out. I did my first bushing replacement just reading through that page on the samba I posted earlier. Wasn't too hard at all.


Edit: ok, went back and looked through the pics, it may be a little more of a pain for you since you have your front bumper installed. You'll likely have to remove the bumper to get the shift rod out Crying or Very sad . Maybe you'll get lucky and your bushing will still be in good shape.

I didn't have my bumpers on when I replaced mine, so it went easier.
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Post by callahan Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:28 pm

86vwgti8v wrote:Not sure what you mean by that. Seems like everything can only go together one way with the exception of the D plate. On that note what is the correct position of that? I got one today, replaced the rear bushing but still can't get jack to work right...
And that spring is supposed to be in under the shifter? It seems to work better without it.

Very frustrating to spend 2 hours today and get nowhere.

i mean like before you tighten the two bolts that hold the shifter all the way down you can tweak the position of the shifter on the tunnel
for example with mine the shifter was too far to the right and would not go into 1st or 2nd gear, so i loosened the bolts a bit and slid the shifter over a little and problem solved. not sure if thats your problem just a thought
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Post by 86vwgti8v Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:38 am

Can I slide the rod far enough forward to put the bushing on in the shifter hole? Not looking to forward to removing ther front bumper. Evey time I do something like that bolts break...
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Post by 86vwgti8v Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:34 pm

bushing replaced...a little closer but not right, got a friend with experience coming tomorrow....

hardest part of building this car was I have no clue what I'm doing..
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Post by bakertim2 Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:58 pm

Nothing like the school of experience.^
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Post by fluxcap Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:59 pm

86vwgti8v wrote:bushing replaced...a little closer but not right, got a friend with experience coming tomorrow....

hardest part of building this car was I have no clue what I'm doing..

always a first for everything! second time will be that much easier.
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Post by 86vwgti8v Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:29 pm

I'm getting close, shouldn't be long before I got a fairly decent beetle.
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Post by 86vwgti8v Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:45 pm

There was some stupid short shifter bushing in the shifter, problem was diagnosed in about 3 minutes...
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Post by drewBAKER Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:35 pm

awesome! so when is the projected debut of this beaut?
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Post by 86vwgti8v Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:43 pm

Not 100% sure. Still got a bunch of crap to do. I'd like to make it to the cherokee show but I might be watercooled for that..

Soon
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Post by 86vwgti8v Sun Jul 24, 2011 7:13 pm

Mild update.
My 65 Beetle Leela - Page 4 2011-07-24_18-02-33_829

New steering wheel, horn ring, ashtray, glovebox cover, saphire I, got a usable rear seat, fuse block, gas tank cleaned, turn signal lever replaced (it was broke) some of other petty stuff been done.
Waiting until I get some money, I can get the front tires mounted and a battery
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Post by 86vwgti8v Sun Aug 07, 2011 9:13 am

Finally, got a battery, bled the brakes, I think I tackled a brake leak. Mounted the rear bumper, got the new tires mounted up front installed the gas tank and put it on the road. Steering is sloppy as hell, going to attempt to adjust that today.

Pulling out my driveway, the little steel arm that extends under the running board scraped and came lose. Can I cut off the bent portion? Should I bend it back up and weld it down?
Pretty sure it's going to happen again.

Also the car its able to turn harder to the right then the left. I removed the "dogbone" looking thing from the steering box and gave it one full revolution to adjust. It wasnt enough. Is there a easier way? That was a major pain!

Hopefully something other then backyard pics, coming soon!
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Post by Grifspop Sun Aug 07, 2011 9:46 am

86vwgti8v wrote:

Pulling out my driveway, the little steel arm that extends under the running board scraped and came lose. Can I cut off the bent portion? Should I bend it back up and weld it down?
Pretty sure it's going to happen again.


If the steel arm you're talking about is the jack point, you might want to straighten it out and keep it! Might be hard to jack the car up if you get a flat tire and you've cut that piece off
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Post by 86vwgti8v Sun Aug 07, 2011 10:00 am

did not united that was the recommended jack point. The car is almost to low to use it anyway.
Is thats it's only purpose?
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Post by Grifspop Sun Aug 07, 2011 11:50 am

86vwgti8v wrote:did not united that was the recommended jack point. The car is almost to low to use it anyway.
Is thats it's only purpose?

With the factory jack, you can jack both the front and rear tires off the ground- might get you out of trouble some time
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Post by Attorney Isaiah Loophole Sun Aug 07, 2011 12:02 pm

I would just cut them off.....find a scissor jack out of the junk yard that will fit under the rear spring plate cover......using the stock jack on a car that may have a weak spot in the heater channel could cause damage to the car (not saying that yours is weakened)
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Post by Bugman114 Sun Aug 07, 2011 1:11 pm

also if you don't have a good working emergency brake, the car will roll and the jack will just rotate in the jack point, and the car will fall. this happened to me once. even in gear, the wheel off the ground will spin, and the car just rolls forward. thank god for AAA What a Face
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Post by 86vwgti8v Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:47 pm

That's what I wanted hear! Sad news is my grinder burnt up on me while wire brushing he seat tracks to remove the rubberized coating stuff.
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Post by 86vwgti8v Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:03 pm

Can any one tell me, does the taillight housing ground out to the body? I've got my taillights working for the most part but seems like they ground out on the body and I may not have a clean ground.
Spent a lot of time in the trial and error process.

My turns some times work..when the lights are on they work less often.

Electrical is definatly a weak spot for me.
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Post by Attorney Isaiah Loophole Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:10 pm

Yeah the housing ground to the fender....if you run an extra wire from the housing to one of the fender bolts you should get a more stable/better ground
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Post by 86vwgti8v Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:22 pm

Awesome, thank you.
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Post by 86vwgti8v Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:44 am

Do the headlights ground out in the same manner?
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