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Running Hot

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Dodgerdog
Joe
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type4revolution
Attorney Isaiah Loophole
JWILL
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Running Hot - Page 2 Empty Re: Running Hot

Post by type4revolution Fri Mar 11, 2016 8:20 pm

When its running what happens when you pull the number 1&3 wire off the dizzy cap. Does it still run the same.
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Post by ggaagg57 Fri Mar 11, 2016 8:32 pm

ck compression , see if even, ck valve adjust ,see if you valve adjuster are backed out more on the hot side , who built motor may have cut head on one side more than the others ,ck plugs heat range and gap ,
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Post by ggaagg57 Fri Mar 11, 2016 8:35 pm

dose it have the right oil cooler on it . just checking
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Post by type4revolution Fri Mar 11, 2016 8:42 pm

Cold side of motor normally means low spark ,bad plugs or incorrect crappy platnum plugs. Or closed gaps or to much gap. wires crappy dizzy ECT . looks like problem just followed one engine to the next. Make sure exhaust can has not come apart inside or collapsed. Etc pull each wire off cap one at a time and see which ones have no response
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Post by JWILL Sat Mar 12, 2016 11:47 am

Took the left carb apart today.
url=https://servimg.com/view/19370052/9]Running Hot - Page 2 20160310[/url]
Not sure what jet is what :
Top left is stamped 160
In the bowl:
Top right is stamped 135
Bottom right is stamped 40
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Post by type4revolution Sat Mar 12, 2016 11:55 am

Update a new pic of motor your old one shows single carb set up not duels
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Post by JWILL Sat Mar 12, 2016 12:21 pm

url=https://servimg.com/view/19370052/10]Running Hot - Page 2 Wp_20118[/url]
Still have to put the carbs back together before I can check the plugs for spark...but I can check resistance - give me a moment.
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Post by JWILL Sat Mar 12, 2016 12:37 pm

Resistance is 1030-1090 ohms from the cap to the plug on all four wires.
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Post by type4revolution Sat Mar 12, 2016 1:01 pm

Those 34s have a history of running like crap. You will need less of an advance curve to run them. Also when its running at idle pull 1&3 plug wires and it will prob run the same at idle. Maddy shack kadrons work the best for budget builds 1600-1776
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Post by JWILL Sat Mar 12, 2016 1:53 pm

type4revolution wrote:Cold side of motor normally means low spark ,bad plugs ...pull each wire off cap one at a time and see which ones have no response

Bingo!!! No response when I pull the #1 & #2 plugs. I also broke the linkage and when I pull the passenger side, it revs then dies back to an idle (so I am assuming the diaphragm/ squirter are working, but the Jets are clogged ).

I will pull the passenger carb tonight and try to blow out the ports.
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Post by JWILL Sat Mar 12, 2016 2:08 pm

type4revolution wrote:Those 34s have a history of running like crap. You will need less of an advance curve to run them. Also when its running at idle pull 1&3 plug wires and it will prob run the same at idle. Maddy shack kadrons work the best for budget builds 1600-1776

The engine these came off of had a dizzy distributor and was an absolute joy to drive. Would that work better? My son will be taking this bug to college next year and I would like to have something that is dependable with enough pep to take on the interstate, but still stock enough to keep him out of trouble and easy to work on.

I look for kads, but would really like to use what I already have.
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Post by type4revolution Sat Mar 12, 2016 2:24 pm

Fix it if ya can no response means two things clogged or jets or to much fuel snuffing out the weak spark with excessive fuel. I like magna spark have had great success ko.make what size motor or xonfig. Set it at 28 at 3000 and Ilse carb to 850 000 and runs like a sewing machine with stock 8 Ac Bosch plugs at 30 gap
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Post by JWILL Sat Mar 12, 2016 3:06 pm

type4revolution wrote:... what size motor or xonfig.

1600 engine, all stock except the carbs. Replaced the pistons, rings and jugs in the fall of 2014 and was having heat issues then so the engine has seen less than 5k on the road. I checked compression last year, can't remember the exact numbers, nothing seemed obviously wrong.
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Post by type4revolution Sun Mar 13, 2016 8:52 pm

How goes the repairs
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Post by JWILL Mon Mar 14, 2016 3:03 pm

I did get the carb cleaned up and back on. Huge difference in how much "get up & go" it has now. Still seeing the oil light come on at idle when she gets hot. I am playing with the timing to see what changes it makes on the running temp and how it feels, but this will take some time with work getting in the way.
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Post by JWILL Thu Mar 17, 2016 6:54 pm

type4revolution wrote:... I like magna spark have had great success ...

Tax returns should be in soon, so I am looking at the magna-spark kits- lots of options...any suggestions or recommendations?
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Post by type4revolution Thu Mar 17, 2016 7:40 pm

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2000

Order this and never look back don't forget a spare cap and rotor for your road side kit. Need help at install I'll be glad to help feel free to give me.a call or stop by
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Post by type4revolution Thu Mar 17, 2016 7:45 pm

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2088
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Post by type4revolution Thu Mar 17, 2016 7:47 pm

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2031
Works great with Bosch blue coil also
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Post by type4revolution Thu Mar 17, 2016 7:50 pm

Change that nasty mixed oil
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Post by JWILL Fri Jun 24, 2016 8:40 pm

Took awhile,  but parts finally came in yesterday...now to find the time to install Running Hot - Page 2 20160610
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Post by type4revolution Fri Jun 24, 2016 10:00 pm

Someone had fun shopping and ?'s feel free to call. Personally my two cents worth loss the dual 34s there junk and wont tune right. Stock carb or dual carbs work beat. Or a nice set of kaddie shack 40s.
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Post by JWILL Mon Jun 27, 2016 8:22 pm

I may have to take you up on that call. The new coil does not indicate a positive or negative on the coil-so do I get to choose? I have gapped my plugs to .26-.27 Is .30 due to the higher output voltage of the coil? Shims came with the distributor- not real sure I know how to determine if I need them. Finally, I am going to have a hard time getting those fancy spark plug wires in due to manifolds...
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Post by JWILL Mon Jun 27, 2016 8:32 pm

As for the 34s, I never could seems to get the PIC34 to adjust properly. At the moment, the 34s seem to accelerate and idle well. Kaddies may have to wait for another day- unless you know where I can get some within my budget - which is not much at the moment...even then, they may go on my next project as my son wants to take this one to college next year.
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Post by type4revolution Mon Jun 27, 2016 8:37 pm

Easy fix / coil hot is in the center between coil wire and outside lugs. The out side lug is the negative I mount coil with coil wire on top and Elec wire on the bottom. The shims and spring throw them in your junk bin not required. DiZZY IS READY TO GO OUT THE BOX. .030 FOR PLUG GAP. I use stock air boot seals on mine sometimes. A little very little silicone WD 40 specialist works well like on boot edge and boot. I have added stock air boots along with the wire boot set and keeps everything sealed up tight no or least. WW and west coast met sell air boots. Feel fee to call or stop by
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