Running Hot

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Running Hot

Post by JWILL on Sun May 10, 2015 12:51 pm

My daily driver, with a stock 1600dp, has started running really hot after swapping engines. The current engine just had the jugs and pistons replaced. Intake, alt and doghouse (flaps removed) swapped to current motor from another that had no heat issues. The oil gets hot enough that the oil light will begin to flicker or occasionally come on at an idle. The valves, timing and carbs have been adjusted which has helped a little with the power but not so much with the heating.

It was also pointed out to me that the vacuum advance unit is not working. I have one on order...  Arrow could this be the issue or do I need to keep looking for the problem Question
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Re: Running Hot

Post by Attorney Isaiah Loophole on Sun May 10, 2015 5:28 pm

Is it a vacuum only advance or a dual advance distributor

_________________
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Re: Running Hot

Post by type4revolution on Sun May 10, 2015 8:25 pm

Got any pics of this boiler maker
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Re: Running Hot

Post by type4revolution on Sun May 10, 2015 9:16 pm

CR, proper timing and fuel jetting are a must for a happy motor.
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Re: Running Hot

Post by Greg on Mon May 11, 2015 8:44 am

new engines produce more heat initially, wonder if that is the case here, what is your timing set to?
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Re: Running Hot

Post by Joe on Mon May 11, 2015 10:02 am

Sent ya a PM

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Re: Running Hot

Post by JWILL on Thu May 14, 2015 7:26 pm

[img][/img]
Here she is...
[img][/img]
Got the vacuum canister installed last night with no noticeable change. I am going to try spark plugs and wires next. Compression on #3 & 4 were approximately 90 and 100lbs respectively. seems a tad bit low for new rings, but maybe they aren't fully seated yet with <500 miles on them.


Last edited by JWILL on Thu May 14, 2015 8:00 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Moved the pic & updated the links)
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Re: Running Hot

Post by JWILL on Thu May 14, 2015 8:02 pm

All of the tin is in. Flaps are removed. Distributor is a Pentonix D1865 with electronic ignition and single vacuum advance. Timing is advanced approximately 7 degrees at idle.
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Re: Running Hot

Post by type4revolution on Thu May 14, 2015 8:35 pm

Ides Set total advance to 28 degrees at 3000,rpm ditch the 7 idle theory. Loose the temp switch from pressure relief valve and install it back to its stock configurations.Make sure belt is not slipping on that shiny chrome pulley and make sure you have a nice late model wide fan in place. Check that air cleaner and make sure it's working correctly. Something looks off on it loose the fuel filter from engine bay not a good place to have it. check fuel lines make sure there clear of all hot pipes and tinwork. Make sure a rag hasn't made it on top of motor below fan ect. Last but not least double check timing marks on pulley critical that there correct.
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Re: Running Hot

Post by Dodgerdog on Thu May 14, 2015 8:50 pm

it does look nice and clean underneath, like type4 mentioned, move that fuel filter off the pressurized side of the pump. if possible put underneath like maybe in between the tank and the tunnel
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Re: Running Hot

Post by Gearshift on Thu Jul 09, 2015 7:28 pm

Was the over heating problem solved? If not maybe the oil pressure relief valves could be stuck. 70 and later engine had two valves. One or both might be stuck which can cause the oil to overheat.

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Re: Running Hot

Post by JWILL on Sat Aug 08, 2015 1:29 pm

Gearshift wrote:Was the over heating problem solved?  If not maybe the oil pressure relief valves could be stuck. 70 and later engine had two valves.  One or both might be stuck which can cause the oil to overheat.

Thanks for checking in. Both relief valves were fine. I am swapping everything to another block (always nice to have a spare), since I can not see anything else that could be causing the over heating; and (with some luck) should have it back on the road this afternoon (fingers crossed)
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Re: Running Hot

Post by Greg on Mon Aug 10, 2015 3:44 pm

JWILL wrote: Flaps are removed.

Could this be part of the problem. I thought you at least needed them to redirect air...

from the samba:

With the flaps installed, it is said that cooling will actually be improved over running without. The flaps help to direct cooling air to vital areas. They in no way harm an engine, even in hot weather. If they did, then they wouldn't have been standard equipment in all VWs.
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Re: Running Hot

Post by JWILL on Mon Aug 10, 2015 6:30 pm

Not sure how much the flaps affect the air flow. I can tell you the overheating did not start until this past year...about the time I replaced the pistons and rings.

Is it possible that the rings are not sealing correctly and the blow-by is super heating the oil? Others than the overheating, it feels great when I step on the gas...so I am not sure.

Either way I have another engine in now that does not seem to be overheating. I didn't drive much after getting stuck on Washington road Saturday night...power wire came off the coil and took me 10-15 min to figure out what happened.
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Re: Running Hot

Post by JWILL on Tue Mar 08, 2016 8:14 pm

Still having a few issues here to solve before this weekend or my beetle is going to have to sit Cruise the Coop out. The heat is coming from the driver's side.  Passenger side tin is still cool to the touch  (including the dip stick ) after a hour drive.  Around town my gauge is about 180' but on the interstate she gets up to 210+ and the oil light begins to flicker when the rpms drop below 1500.
url=http://www.servimg.com/view/19370052/8][/url]
Sprayed some carb cleaner around the left carb tonight and couldn't detect any leaks. I will check my valves in the morning.


Last edited by JWILL on Tue Mar 08, 2016 8:17 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : just clarified a few items)
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Re: Running Hot

Post by type4revolution on Tue Mar 08, 2016 9:44 pm

what is yoir timing set at.pertronnix are know to have to much advance. Is your vacuum advance working correcrly. What size is your main jet. What cooling fan are you running and is you og air cleaner vacuum section working correctly.
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Re: Running Hot

Post by Greg on Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:31 am

What type/viscosity oil are you running, 210 is about where I want my oil to run at
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Re: Running Hot

Post by vw57drvr on Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:53 am

210 is fine. Sometimes the oil flickering light can be normal. Even the original owners manuals make mention of the flicker.
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Re: Running Hot

Post by type4revolution on Wed Mar 09, 2016 9:13 am

Brad Penn 20x50 all year round
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Re: Running Hot

Post by JWILL on Wed Mar 09, 2016 9:26 am

-I tried the 28'btdc at 3000rpw but that ended up 10'atdc at idle and it barely runs, so I am somewhere around 7' btdc at idle again.
-I do have the larger fan.
-You can feel the vacuum line suction when you review the engine and the timing does advance when you place a suction on the diaphragm.
-Not sure about the jetting, but the carbs came off a 1667cc that was running well with the current jets (I'll check if I pull the carbs off again,  but my plugs do not look white...at least not yet)

Maybe I am confused,  but wouldn't these cause both sides to run hot?

-Not certain I trust the temp readings as fact. At the moment I have a mixture of 20w50 and 15w40 in the case. What really bothers me is how hot the driver's side gets while the passenger's side stays cool. Question


Last edited by JWILL on Wed Mar 09, 2016 9:29 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : spelling correction)
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Re: Running Hot

Post by Greg on Wed Mar 09, 2016 10:22 am

Try running it at 32 degrees, the amount of advance at idle isn't really important, just as long as it does idle.

how are you determining the temp of the two sides?
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Re: Running Hot

Post by type4revolution on Wed Mar 09, 2016 10:59 am

What size is main jet this will help top end but you cant go to big also what is your air correction jet. Too much overall advance No good. When you set it to 28ish at 3000 you should be between 7 and 10 at idle should not go below zero.. Would not run any mixed weighted oils . if your running slip in 88s throw them in the trash.
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Re: Running Hot

Post by ggaagg57 on Wed Mar 09, 2016 3:37 pm

you can throw them my way if they are the ones you have to cut the heads and not the case
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Re: Running Hot

Post by type4revolution on Wed Mar 09, 2016 3:48 pm

Cut case ones good / Slip in bad bad bad to thin to heat
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Re: Running Hot

Post by JWILL on Fri Mar 11, 2016 7:37 pm

Greg wrote:

how are you determining the temp of the two sides?

I am determining temperature by feel. You can put your whole hand on the passenger side tin without a problem, but the driver's side you can barely touch when it gets hot. Also if you spray water on the driver's side value cover it boils while you can touch the passenger's side.

Going to skip Cruise the Coop tomorrow and swap the cards to see if it makes a difference.
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Re: Running Hot

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