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Simple HP gain

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camch
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Post by PeeWeeMan91 Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:00 pm

well i kinda want something simpler. easy to maintain.
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Post by PeeWeeMan91 Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:01 pm

for the rockers do i have to do anything else but bolt them on
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Post by Bugman114 Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:13 pm

Bugman114 wrote:ratio rockers are supposed to mimick higher lift cams. 1.25's on a stock motor would provide a little more hp. but be prepared to re-set the rocker geometry. the rocker arms will have the adjustment on the pushrod side, instead of the valve side of the rocker arm. so you will have to get cut to length pushrods, as well as a pushrod adjustment tool (you can borrow mine if you want). stock pushrods will be too long. you will have to use the tool, along with shims under the rocker shafts to correctly set the angle of the rockers arms in relation to the valve and pushrod. sounds more complicated then it really is. its just another step you have to do.

sorry for being a post whore, just tryin to be as descriptive as possible, lol Laughing


PeeWeeMan91 wrote:well i kinda want something simpler. easy to maintain.
What were you referring to?
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Post by PeeWeeMan91 Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:15 pm

no its ok i want something cheap and easy
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Post by Bugman114 Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:16 pm

are you referring to the carb set-ups?
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Post by PeeWeeMan91 Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:27 pm

anything that will make it go faster but i really need tires on it first
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Post by Bugman114 Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:35 pm

If your going for simplicity, then get a centermount carb set-up. duals can be a PITA to set-up, and maintain. either a progressive, center mount IDF, or maybe even a centermount dellorto. on a stock motor i'd prolly recommend the progrogressive. But with ANY carb set-up, you will still need to re-jet and tune them initially. thats just part of it. You may be able to slap it on and it may run, but it won't be as smoothe, or run as well as if you tune it.

just go to any VW show, and half of the cars there with aftermarket carbs will backfire, spit, shut off on accel, etc. When i was at BAP, many cars did that. there was one car there, it was a ratrod, with wooden panels. looked clean and really nice. but he could bearly get it started, and he had to damn near floor it to get it rollin, lol.
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Post by PeeWeeMan91 Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:41 pm

oh wow thats not good at all
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Post by Bugman114 Sun Jun 20, 2010 7:53 pm

lol. but yeah, stockornaut has some good deals on tires, so i'd give em a call when they open. then you can worry about engine mods.

Im starting a thread in the 70's section. i'm going to be redoing the turbo set-up on my 74 super. The plan is to add some 041 heads, maybe ratio rockers, single hi rev valve springs, full flow, deep sump, and a few other goodies. check it out sometime.
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Post by goatfarmer67 Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:04 pm

synthetic transaxle lube,synthetic engine oil.properly jetted and tuned carb.properly tuned ignition,premium fuel,32 psi rear,25 psi front for your tires.correct alignment,correct brake adjustment.
simple and effective

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Post by Bugman114 Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:10 pm

i wouldn't use synthetic oil, because it will make any current leaks worse, and it can also litterally sweat thru the engine case itself. magnesium is more pourous then aluminum, and it can actually seep thru the case itself. i don't know if different engine codes are worse then others, as the differenc engine codes had slightly different alloys used in making the case. some people say synthetic works, and for others it sweats thru the case. My AE block sweats oil out of the case itself. not bad enough to drip everywhere, but enough to keep the case dirty and nasty. but i used it once in an AJ fuel injected AS21 case, and it didn't seep thru the case, so i guess it depends.

but i preferr to use an oil with zinc. the best would be brad penn oil, but its a bit expensive, and you have to order it. i think there's a place in lilburn that sells it tho, but i use valvoline racing oil, as it has a high zinc content and every advance auto has it. with out zinc, you can wear out the valve train parts, and make the cam go flat.
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Post by PeeWeeMan91 Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:14 pm

i run 87 is that bad higher just burns quicker for me
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Post by PeeWeeMan91 Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:26 pm

i run 87 is that bad higher just burns quicker for me
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Post by PeeWeeMan91 Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:30 pm

i have a 1500cc single port dual carb type3 motor out of a sqareback anything i can do with that. or would anyone be interested in buying it
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Post by Bugman114 Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:39 pm

Going with higher octane fuel won't have any effect on horsepower at all on a stock motor. Octane is simply a rating of the resistance of gas to self ignite when under compression. since stock VW motors have relatively low compression, it doesn't make a difference. 87 octane will make the EXACT same power as 93 or 105 octane. octane has absolutely nothing to do with horsepower.

Now if you had a high compression or turbo motor, and you use 87 octane, it will detonate, meaning the gas will explode a split second before it supposed to, and cause pinging, and detonation, which can destroy your motor. but unless you have a high compresson motor, or a turbo motor, you won't need premium.
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Post by Bugman114 Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:39 pm

PeeWeeMan91 wrote:i have a 1500cc single port dual carb type3 motor out of a sqareback anything i can do with that. or would anyone be interested in buying it

Pics?
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Post by Bugman114 Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:44 pm

I'm no type 3 expert, but a type three motor is essentially exactly the same as a bug motor. same block, and internals, same everything. the only real differences are the tins, alternator, and a few other minor stuff. infact most of the aftermarket cases you buy are universal cases, which can be used for a bug or a type 3.
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Post by Attorney Isaiah Loophole Sun Jun 20, 2010 9:01 pm

looks to me that the cheapest dual carb setup would be kadrons.....look in the samba classifieds you should be able to get a complete used set for 200 or so
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Post by Bugman114 Sun Jun 20, 2010 9:09 pm

either that of ICT's. both can be had for pretty cheaply.
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Post by PeeWeeMan91 Sun Jun 20, 2010 9:48 pm

dang i was hoping that type three motor was like a type 4 motor and could be made to be a super touqer from jake raby. ill get pics tommorrow
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Post by Bugman114 Sun Jun 20, 2010 9:59 pm

lol. well damn. i thought you wanted cheap, bolt on things Laughing

if you want a tourque monster, i suggest:

-aluminum case
-86mm chromoly crank
-94mm slip in cylinders
-eliminator heads
-engle 130 cam
-megasquirt fuel injection/ crank trigger ignition system
-DTM fanshroud
-1.5 autocraft rockers
-chromoly 3/8'' diameter pushrods
-twin T3/T4 hybrid turbos
etc.






lol!






this is my dream engine that i'll build when i hit the lottery Laughing
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Post by PeeWeeMan91 Sun Jun 20, 2010 10:13 pm

yeah mee too
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Post by camch Sun Jun 20, 2010 10:50 pm

i dont no who said octane does not make a difference,but that is dead wrong,the higher the octane the cooler the engine will run,if 87 octane was made for a vw they would have given it as there sugestion (91),before you just go out and do something because some one said so you need to ask them how many high performance engines they have built,if they have only built 4-5 they are just telling you what they have heard and not what they no,as far as a turbo set up i have built about 15 and mine has close to 450 hp at the rear wheels and i built the whole thing,if you want to hop up your 1600 get you a good exhaust and a single 32/36 weber conversion ,when set up properly you will enjoy it,when you go messing with ratio rocker you have to re adjust gemetry in the engine to make it be correct,(just making a valve open more does not make it run better) you have to have the air going in and out,meaning carburation and exhaust,,there are a few more small things you can do but dont plan on alot more power out of your 1600 engine,,hope this will help you out
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Post by Bugman114 Sun Jun 20, 2010 11:38 pm

the octane rating of 91 on aircooled VW's is in RON rating. Here in the USA we use the AKI rating which is the average of the RON and MON ratings. 91 RON equals 87 AKI. so yes 87 is whats recommended for a STOCK bug motor. Using higher octane in a stock VW is fine, and won't hurt anything, but you will NOT see a difference. any difference that does occur will be so minute, you won't notice it. i mean, were talking about 50ish HP. even if higher octane would make the engine run cooler, and lets say that its a 10% increase (just as an example, not i'm saying it does give you 10% more), are you really gonna notice 5 more HP? By all means, if you want to run the higher octane, go ahead. but to me the benifits are so little, i don't see it being worth it on a stock daily driver. Now on a high performance motor, with a higher CR, you will have to run a higher octane, or else you will pre detonate, and destroy your motor. but running higher octane then whats needed, ON A HIGH PERFORMANCE MOTOR you will definately see some good results. but again, on a stock motor, it just doesn't matter. and yes, i do know this, not what someone told me Wink

and is it really that hard to set up rocker geometry. at half lift the angle of the rocker arm to pushrod, needs to be equal to the angle of the rocker arm to valve stem, which is 90 degrees. i don't like to use shims, i'd rather change the length of the pushrod to acheve this, or use lash caps, but i've used shims before with pretty good results.
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Post by camch Mon Jun 21, 2010 7:29 am

if you will read his title it says SIMPLE HP GAINS and as you even stated it will gain hp,,,and what more simple gain can you do beside filling up with gas at a higher octane? answer nothing,,i have 2 running type 1 cars and a type 3 and i would not use anything except 91
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